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Thread: New - OLD Tank

  1. #61
    Senior Member maxthedog2000's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by JMEYER0503 View Post
    Does everything run through the GFO or is there a T to let off some pressure?
    Everything goes through it I'll send a pic asap

    Carter

  2. #62
    Senior Member Kirblit's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by JMEYER0503 View Post
    Thanks for the info - Was thinking about adding a ball valve but I also did build it to accept the overflow from the tank, would just need a hole to allow lower pressure or add a T connection. I built it with 3/4 inch tube connections to fit the tank bulkheads better. So the Brown/Orange GFO is better than the Phosban stuff? Is there anything I should watch for with coral or fish to know if it is doing harm? Also is there anyplace in the Springs that sells the GFO I need?

    I already have a PH with Alk buffer and another buffer that I cannot remember right now.
    The one good thing is I'm religious about checking parameters right now.
    With waking up at 3am I have a few minutes I can test phosphates and will likely run it only at night and remove before the lights come on.
    GFO and phosban are the same thing. Sps will start to pale/bleach if nutrients are too low. Other corals will lose color and not expand very much because they are getting too much light and the zoozanthelle leave the coral because they are in too much light. Having no nutrients essentially makes them unable to photosynthesise because you need a carbon, phos, and NO3 source. Sps are really good nutrient indicators of nutrients.

    Brown=too many nutrients/need more light & alk to use those nutrients

    Pale/bleached= too low nutrients/need less light & alk because of low nutrients. Essentially you will get burnt tips first which is the skeleton outpacing flesh growth because of a lack of nutrients needed for the zoozanthelle to feed the coral flesh. This will usually lead to STN.

    I would be concerned about detritus buildup if you used it off of the overflow. It would probably be OK short term but I would want a filter sock or settling area upstream of the reactor.

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  3. #63
    Senior Member maxthedog2000's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by maxthedog2000 View Post
    Everything goes through it I'll send a pic asap

    Carter
    Here are a few pics sorry about the lighting





    The water siphons from the fuge through the reactor and empties in the sump



    This is the fuge and sump setup you can see the reactor on the left

    Carter
    Last edited by maxthedog2000; 07-26-2016 at 01:53 PM.

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxthedog2000 View Post
    Here are a few pics sorry about the lighting





    The water siphons from the fuge through the reactor and empties in the sump



    This is the fuge and sump setup you can see the reactor on the left

    Carter
    Thanks for the info - I think I will go by the ball valve to control flow.
    New Paramiters as of today -
    10-20ppm Nitrate
    1.5-2pppm Phosphate
    It appears my algae is beginning to increase as the live rock is now covered in a thick dark green algae. No Cyano in DT but exists in the refugium/sump

  5. #65
    Registered User Just_Tim's Avatar

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    Aquatic Art carries the little green valves that come with reactors for 1/2 and 3/4 tubing.

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  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMEYER0503 View Post
    Thanks for the info - I think I will go by the ball valve to control flow.
    New Paramiters as of today -
    10-20ppm Nitrate
    1.5-2pppm Phosphate
    It appears my algae is beginning to increase as the live rock is now covered in a thick dark green algae. No Cyano in DT but exists in the refugium/sump
    Just ordered
    GFO (Phosphate) - Phosban (Nitrate,Nitrite and Ammonia) - will run through my reactor
    Two 1300gph wave-makers (Turns out one of my live rock was not getting enough movement [Turning Black] and need one of the smaller ones for the refugium) - The total movement will be around 3000gph in a 90 gallon or + 30x can rotate another small one in if there is too much movement.
    MarinePure Bio Balls (To use for the return section in the sump. A final Bio Filter and will help keep animals out when layered by plastic knitting cloth)

    It will be here Friday - if I can get the phosphates down and lower the nitrates slightly then I should be able to get the water quality way up.

  7. #67
    Senior Member Kirblit's Avatar

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    Don't stress too much your nutrients are not that bad. High nutrients don't always equate to algae issues, I can attest to that. Check out this thread I made a month or so ago
    http://www.thescmas.com/forums/showt...isly-High-Phos!
    Getting the phos down is pretty easy really. I just now got my nitrates down to around 10 (i figure they were over 150). Never had an algae problem and corals looked good. I still haven't scraped my glass in over 2 months. Most important thing is to have some nutrients and not to let phos ever be higher than nitrates or you will get a ton of algae in most cases. Shoot for real low phos and then have nitrates at 5 or so for optimum coral happiness 😉. You never want 0 of either.

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  9. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirblit View Post
    Don't stress too much your nutrients are not that bad. High nutrients don't always equate to algae issues, I can attest to that. Check out this thread I made a month or so ago
    http://www.thescmas.com/forums/showt...isly-High-Phos!
    Getting the phos down is pretty easy really. I just now got my nitrates down to around 10 (i figure they were over 150). Never had an algae problem and corals looked good. I still haven't scraped my glass in over 2 months. Most important thing is to have some nutrients and not to let phos ever be higher than nitrates or you will get a ton of algae in most cases. Shoot for real low phos and then have nitrates at 5 or so for optimum coral happiness 😉. You never want 0 of either.

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    Yeah, Im not as worried about the nitrates however I have a rock that started turning black, think it may have lacked O2. Wanted to get the stuff to scrub everything and work from a lower slate. My Phosphates was at 5+ppm and now they are down around 1-2 now and slowly rise. Think it is the old rock leaching some. Using the phosphate reducer will help. I am using some stuff Murfman gave me but it has stopped working right now and without the instructions I cannot try increasing the dose. Along with two of my wavemakers putting out a lot less flow it was just building gunk. Corals look alright however Apastia seems to be coming in heavy. Looks like a file fish (just worried about bubble anemone) as everything else gets eaten by my Pink Tail. Also need some CUC as the only snails I have are under the sand. I figure get this handled and I am pretty rigorous about water changes so it should stay low.

    I had read that a while back. I am another proof that high Nitrate and Phosphate does not equal algae bloom. Now add carbon like I did in the sump and its another story.

  10. #69
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    Tank update, my GFO arrived yesterday afternoon and I hooked it up to my Reactor. It seems to be working as my phosphates went from >1.5 to <.5ppm in around 12-16 hours. The nitrates dropped to 5-10ppm and the KH is around 12, just added a KH supplement to raise it some. The Cyano appears to be receding as well as the diatoms bloom. The greenish rock color remains but the green algae on the glass is gone. I also added the fake calcium bio balls to the refugium pump area we will see how that one goes.

    The water looks much clearer due to adding 2000gph+ wave makers in with the existing flow. All per amputees appear to be within range accept for phosphates remaining high. How long until I notice a difference in coral growth? Is there anything someone would recommend to help increase growth, non target feeding? Also in about 4 weeks what are some good fish for the job? I'm thinking a small yellow tang for now as it will give me time to look for a larger tank by the time it needs it.

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    What corals do you have? All I see posted is the Green Star polyps. Maybe I missed an update? If you haven't had a source to seed coraline algae, I would recommend getting some to get your rocks started turning purple, which keeps other algae from gaining hold as easily. You just need some scrapings of some or a small rock with some already on it. I can scrape some for you if you need it.

    If you have algae, a lawnmower blend is a great small fish to add. I'd recommend a scopas tang. Be ready, you'll get a lot of different fish recommendations, as everyone has their favorites for certain reasons.
    Don't look here for a comment.

  13. #71
    Senior Member Kirblit's Avatar

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    Your alk is plenty high, don't add anymore. 8-11 is a good range, I tend to shoot for 10. Again like Joe asked, what corals do you have? Phosphate is really only growth limiting to stony corals, softies like a dirtier tank. If you have acros your probably talking a month or 2 of good stable conditions for real big improvements.

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  14. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe View Post
    What corals do you have? All I see posted is the Green Star polyps. Maybe I missed an update? If you haven't had a source to seed coraline algae, I would recommend getting some to get your rocks started turning purple, which keeps other algae from gaining hold as easily. You just need some scrapings of some or a small rock with some already on it. I can scrape some for you if you need it.

    If you have algae, a lawnmower blend is a great small fish to add. I'd recommend a scopas tang. Be ready, you'll get a lot of different fish recommendations, as everyone has their favorites for certain reasons.
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe View Post
    What corals do you have? All I see posted is the Green Star polyps. Maybe I missed an update? If you haven't had a source to seed coraline algae, I would recommend getting some to get your rocks started turning purple, which keeps other algae from gaining hold as easily. You just need some scrapings of some or a small rock with some already on it. I can scrape some for you if you need it.

    If you have algae, a lawnmower blend is a great small fish to add. I'd recommend a scopas tang. Be ready, you'll get a lot of different fish recommendations, as everyone has their favorites for certain reasons.

    Well tried to attach images but no luck
    Coral:
    Duncan
    Frogspaw
    Acan - several
    Bounce Mushroom
    Several Zoas - 5 or six types
    Managed to save one Monti
    Blue Trumpet - two heads getting ready to split
    Candycane
    War Coral
    Chalice
    Cup Coral - Large
    Green Star Polyp

    Tested the water at 2100 - its around .25ppm Phosphate
    KH - 12 and slowly dropping
    PH - 8.2 - 8.3
    Salinity - 1.026 - adjusting tank water to drop to 1.025/4
    Nitrate - 5-10ppm
    Calcium - 480ppm fell from 520

    The water looks really clear now - however I have a new issue weird red/brown hydra like things are on the back glass and they move with the current. Thinking some form of algae but don't know. I have been having hydra lately - however these appear to be red or light brown not the white of the normal hydras.

    I also have a whole mess of brownish circle spots forming along the dirty back glass. They have a dark brown center and lighter outside and almost perfectly round - is this what I think it is (Beginning Coralline algae?)

    I have also spotted a stripped feather duster, bright red feather duster, and a few clears ones around the coral frags.

    Have noticed an increase in aptasia (grrrr).

    Lights on for around 7 hours - on a timer
    clean up crew working overtime - everything is looking much better
    Protein skimmer actually skimming

  15. #73
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    Alright so it has been a while since I have provided an update on the tank.

    Everything appears to be doing better since the addition of the wavemakers.

    My Nassarius Snails seem to be breeding as I found some tiny guys cruzing along. I have a tiny starfish on the glass, looks as though its going for algae; never added it. White sponges forming all around the tank. The white rocks darkening getting a brown/green look to them.

    Corals appear happy as everything is extending and some color has come back. Amphipods and Copopod levels are rising. Algae has not grown or remains the same unless in the sump.

    Only issue I have is that all the coral does not look as bright. I have a Blue at 10k T5 and a more red spectrum at 6700k.

  16. #74
    Registered User turbojoe's Avatar

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    Pics?!

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  17. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by turbojoe View Post
    Pics?!

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    IMG_0692.JPGIMG_0704.JPGIMG_0706.JPGIMG_0709.JPGIMG_0711.JPG

  18. #76
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    It appears that my system is wanting to stay at .125 mg/l Phosphates and Likes to run around 10-15ppm Nitrates. I have been running GFO and Carbon lately and the color of the COral has increased greatly. The Favia, Acans, and Duncan are going bonkers with each starting about 2 or more heads/mouths. The ones seeming to have trouble are the Trumpet and Frogspaw whihc remain with the original number of heads.

    I have noticed my protein skimmer is no longer pulling skim and figured my jimmy rigged system is finally is giving out. So I just ordered a Sedra 3500 for the ASM skimmer a slight upgrade in power so fingers crossed there. I also ordered an ATI 14k light fixture to replace the 6.7k spectrum I have now.

    Thank you everyone for all the information.

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