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Thread: Had this for a while now

  1. #21
    Registered User Sputnik's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by bush8984 View Post
    Oh contraire monfraire

    http://www.seachem.com/Products/prod...ParaGuard.html

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  2. #22
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by bush8984 View Post
    In reagards to levis paraguard statement. I run paraguard full strength in 3 of my systems. 2 of which have core and inverts. Seachem doesn't advise doing this and says to do so at your own risk. I took the risk and haven't lost anything. Just my experience. I recommend doing your own research on it and making your own decision

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    +1 I knew bush runs it but would rather let him advise of its use rather than me since I have never used it

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  3. #23
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sputnik View Post
    Paragaurd is not for external parasites. Do a 7min freshwater dip then a medicated QT tank.
    Ich is not external if white spots are showing. That is actually the fishes skins reaction to the parasite being burrowed into the fish.

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  4. #24
    Registered User Luke W.'s Avatar

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    When i added new fish to the tank i thought that the ich was gone but apparently there were a few left. I am setting up a qt today. Should it start with hypo salinity or should i slowly lower the salinity once the fish are in.

  5. #25
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    if you do not have any inverts and corals in the tank with fish then just lower your salinity. Make sure you have a refractometer as you need to be accurate here. Ich can survive (experts widely disagree on the exact number) from 1.014-normal salinity. I have read that Ich starts to die at 1.018 but when running hypo you want to keep it at 1.010 - 1.008 and an auto top off is best to keep the salinity at the level you want specifically. Also make sure to do 10% water changes weekly. I am running carbon in my HOB filter but I am not medicating so I am not worried about removing anything.

  6. #26
    Registered User Luke W.'s Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    if you do not have any inverts and corals in the tank with fish then just lower your salinity. Make sure you have a refractometer as you need to be accurate here. Ich can survive (experts widely disagree on the exact number) from 1.014-normal salinity. I have read that Ich starts to die at 1.018 but when running hypo you want to keep it at 1.010 - 1.008 and an auto top off is best to keep the salinity at the level you want specifically. Also make sure to do 10% water changes weekly. I am running carbon in my HOB filter but I am not medicating so I am not worried about removing anything.
    I have quite a few inverts and a couple corals. I will just put them in a qt with hypo. From now on when i get a fish i will qt it. I still have not lost and fish and i am boosting their immune system with garlic, nori, and a wide variety of meaty foods. I am making water for my qt today. I will post some pics of it so that you guys can check it to make sure that it is good.

  7. #27
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke W. View Post
    I have quite a few inverts and a couple corals. I will just put them in a qt with hypo. From now on when i get a fish i will qt it. I still have not lost and fish and i am boosting their immune system with garlic, nori, and a wide variety of meaty foods. I am making water for my qt today. I will post some pics of it so that you guys can check it to make sure that it is good.
    again just want to clarify that you DONT want to put coral and inverts into hypo as it will kill them all. do you have a refractometer? I ordered mine off amazon.com and it should be in by friday. It was 26.99 plus 4.99 shipping.

  8. #28
    Registered User Luke W.'s Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    again just want to clarify that you DONT want to put coral and inverts into hypo as it will kill them all. do you have a refractometer? I ordered mine off amazon.com and it should be in by friday. It was 26.99 plus 4.99 shipping.
    I have a refractometer. I will have no coral or inverts in the qt. Bare bottom, pvc pipe for hiding, hob filter, heater and dim lights. Ten percent water change every week and normal feedings.

  9. #29
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    perfect! sounds like you got everything you need! if you have any questions along the way let us know.

  10. #30
    Registered User Luke W.'s Avatar

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    Thanks guys

  11. #31
    Senior Member charleshardy5's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    perfect! sounds like you got everything you need! if you have any questions along the way let us know.
    +1. Just did this method myself and it works. Its been trying as I have had to learn patience but totally worth it. I also learned the hard way to qt fish before introducing them into my dt. I would also recommend feeding your fish with a garlic laced food to help boost their immunities and ability to fight infection

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  12. #32
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    I bought a bottle of the medicated fish eggs from Bush and it has lasted a long time (refrigerated). I feed it to the whole tank anytime I add new fish. I feed the old crew a couple of days before I add the new fish and keep feeding it to them all for about a week after I add the new fish. I see it as cheap insurance.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by charleshardy5 View Post
    +1. Just did this method myself and it works. Its been trying as I have had to learn patience but totally worth it. I also learned the hard way to qt fish before introducing them into my dt. I would also recommend feeding your fish with a garlic laced food to help boost their immunities and ability to fight infection
    I think everyone ends up learning that lesson the hard way. The only time I've lost fish is when I got lazy and skipped using the quarantine tank.

    It seems like qt is not only good for disease control but is also less stressful on the fish so my survival rate is pretty good.

    Bernout

  14. #34
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe View Post
    I bought a bottle of the medicated fish eggs from Bush and it has lasted a long time (refrigerated). I feed it to the whole tank anytime I add new fish. I feed the old crew a couple of days before I add the new fish and keep feeding it to them all for about a week after I add the new fish. I see it as cheap insurance.
    Name of the fish eggs? Interested in getting some from Bush

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  15. #35
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    kmellon's Avatar

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    curious about the fish eggs also.

  16. #36
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    They were Dr G's http://www.drgsmarineaquaculture.com...iar-detail.cfm active ingredient is Chloroquine phosphate. I left mine out of the refrigerator a couple of times by accident and figured I ruined them. I could have used it recently. For my tank now, I decided to qt the fish and run fallow to make sure I get the ich out of the tank since it's big and I have all my fish in one basket when it is fully stocked. If there is another buy of Dr G's, I would get another bottle and use it as a backup - insurance. I'll keep this one refrigerated.

  17. #37
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    ok yeah I read something about Dr. G's on reefbuilders and apparently they have changed the formulation with a slightly higher dosage so it works better now. I would be up to jump in on that group buy as well. Maybe this is something we can get setup as a SCMAS group buy?

  18. #38
    Senior Member 719bloodhound's Avatar

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    id be in for a GB

  19. #39
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    Lmk what you guys can work out. If not I have minimum order and I'll bring it in if it can be met

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  20. #40
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    "Active ingredient is Chloroquine phosphate" So it'll treat malaria too, you know, just in case.

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