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Thread: 180G Project

  1. #41
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    Awesome! I need to get one of those large Rubbermaid tubs

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  2. #42
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    looks good. I love how your taking your time. def not a race

  3. #43
    Senior Member Brian's Avatar

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    Nice work, i'm glad you found the lockline. I'm excited to see your custom rock.

  4. #44
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    Yea. SeaScape had tons of loc-line. Seemed a bit pricey but isn't everything in this hobby? Still need to buy lights and the skimmer for the sump. And im keeping my eyes out for the ATO kit and a small pump for that. Still a ways away but if there's one thing I know for sure its that I have quite a bit of time before the rock is ready so no rush.

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  5. #45
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  6. #46
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  7. #47
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Project Tanked View Post
    Okay, so I made my Refugium and it's not as traditional as others that I have seen, but the Refuge was designed around the protein skimmer that's going in it. I've decided on getting the AquaMaxx EcoMaxx EM200 for it. I build a glass box around where it's going to go and split the box in half horizontally. Then added egg crate around it with some gutter protector that I cut to fit and make a type of shelf to hold my carbon, filter and bio balls. Also by doing it this way, uses less room of what could be the refuge but gives me most area to use for those things I'll be putting on the shelf's instead of creating baffles and using those. The lower glass before it opens up for the bottom shelf is 5" tall, allowing me to have up to at least a 4" deep sand bed. By opening it all the way around, allows for flow to come out in more directions that just one as well. Top shelf will sit just barely under the top water level at 13" and I have a 2" stand for the skimmer to sit on top of so that it sits where it should be in the water. The drain from the DT will drain into the corner behind the skimmer, where the inlet for the skimmer will be. I don't see why this wouldn't work as well if not better than traditional methods of building a refuge, but seeing how I haven't seen one made like this, I really wont know until it's running. But this just like the rest, is a project. And I'm hoping to be as unique as possible. Next will be the ATO using the JBJ ATO and a 20G Tall tank. Also, much thanks to xsocali for supplying me with the glass to do this. Huge help!





    so I just noticed the gap in the glass where you have the egg crate and gutter guard about half way up the chamber. I also noticed that your bubble trap is slightly higher than the chamber, have you tested to see how much flow you get out of the middle gab when the sump is full of water?

  8. #48
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    Flow should be determined by the return pump regardless of those as long as the drain tubes themselves can pass the same flow as the pump returns. But no I haven't checked. No water has been ran thru anything yet. If you could explain more on what you mean maybe id understand better.

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  9. #49
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    And the crate is so that I can maximize surface area that water passes thru. Such as rock rubble or bio balls. Its lower around the that spot on purpose for that factor. And the last baffle is that low to allow evaporation without water supply being cut off and burning up the return pump.

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  10. #50
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    This is my first build and first time doing all of this. The sump. The ATO. The DIY Rock and everything else. So im learning as I go.

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  11. #51
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Project Tanked View Post
    Flow should be determined by the return pump regardless of those as long as the drain tubes themselves can pass the same flow as the pump returns. But no I haven't checked. No water has been ran thru anything yet. If you could explain more on what you mean maybe id understand better.

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    I'm just interested in your design. I wanted to know with that large of a gap if you will get any flow over the top of the chamber or mostly through the gap, or the other way around. Also with the bubble trap wall being higher than the chamber it will fill up over the chamber which may reduce the idea of what I think you are going for. I'm no engineer so I'm always learning on the go as well, just always interested in others designs especially a well thought out design like yours.

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  12. #52
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    I think I understand where you're going with this so I'll try and explain. The drain from the DT is a gravity drain. So with how its set up, the hose will be cut off about 6 inches from the bottom of the tank, sitting behind the skimmer. With the gravity and the skimmer to block direct route out, it will hit the bottom and go the path of least resistance. Up. So I think most of my flow will end up over the top. However, the skimmer will be pulling near the drain and then draining that water out mid level. So its a dual effect. The water flowing over the top will be filtered by the rock rubble I'll be using while the water from the skimmer will pass over the same kind of rock with houses good bacteria that the eco system loves. And to reduce bubbles in my sump, im going to adjust allowed flow from the DT to the sump so that it matches the return pump. Then fill my overflows up half way. Then its an even, constant flow. Another thing to keep in mind is that with the box set up like that, its not draining into a baffle... so there won't be any calcium build up on the water or on the tank. A lot to take into consideration. And this could be a fluke... no one has ever done this from what I've seen and there may be reasons why. All I ever saw was baffles after baffles after baffles and most sumps look the same.

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  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    I'm just interested in your design. I wanted to know with that large of a gap if you will get any flow over the top of the chamber or mostly through the gap, or the other way around. Also with the bubble trap wall being higher than the chamber it will fill up over the chamber which may reduce the idea of what I think you are going for. I'm no engineer so I'm always learning on the go as well, just always interested in others designs especially a well thought out design like yours.

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    The top part of the glass, yes, is under the baffle on the return side of the sump however the basket extents to the exact level of the baffle. In my mind, that would force water through it, not over. And flow is flow when it comes to the sump. It's leading into an area with Macro and a deep sand bed and some rock. And having media in the baskets, really, slower flow would be idea in some cases. Macro and live rock dont filter the water instantly, it takes time, so a slower flow means better filtration over a gradual time instead of a mediocre filtration over a rapid time. Tho I still believe that based on positioning of the skimmer, drain line and baskets... Both top and bottom will get right around the same amount of flow.
    Last edited by Project Tanked; 02-20-2014 at 09:43 PM.

  14. #54
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  15. #55
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    Plumbing complete. And to show how I kept my lines side by side and clean looking inside the stand, I showed how I used the 45 and 90 degree elbows to stagger the lines.

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  16. #56
    Registered User Chadrw79's Avatar

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    Just curious did you water test your overflows? I see you didn't use the traditional bulk heads curious how they sealed up for you? Do you have gaskets in between the glass and that inside male adapter?
    To watch a Video of my Tank PRESS HERE

  17. #57
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    I used a sealant for all the fittings. Thats the green stuff. And I didnt have luck with the rubber gaskets I got. They kept ripping. So I used marine safe silicon on the bottom side of the bulk heads against the glass. Leak tested and fine. I didnt feel like buying kits or name brand expensive stuff so I went to Home Depot and sized it all myself. Everything there to do the plumbing ran me at about $65. Time will tell tho. It'll get fresh water for a few days once I get a return pump just to make sure everythings good to go.

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  18. #58
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    It looks good. What kind of sealant is that?

  19. #59
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    Aqueon silicone

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  20. #60
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    The problem with not using rubber gaskets is if you have a leak or have to replace something, you have to drain the overflow, dry it out and reveal it every time. If it'd sealed and the fittings don't get bumped you should be fine. I did this on a smaller scale on my qt and water tested it with no leaks for 24 hrs.

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