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Thread: Joe's 530 Gallon System Build

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe View Post
    Paul, I tried that, but it just raises the whole end of stand without making a difference. Honestly that's why this is taking so long. I keep putting off doing something about it because I don't like the idea of shimming under the wood or leaving it slightly off level.

    Here is a shot of the bubble level.


    Here is a shot of the tank with a little water in in it.


    It is 3/32" off from left to right when looking down the full length of the tank- the right side needs to come up. However, the whole tank isn't off, just the last 2.5 feet. Maybe the tank was made slightly off? One washer and one razor blade stacked under the level and measured at 3/32" makes it level at the end. One spar over that same amount makes it off level the exact same in the opposite direction. It is sitting on 3/4 inch foam. I wonder if it will level out with a full load in the tank, or if it can handle that little bit of difference if it doesn't.
    Try filling it 1/2 way. I am wondering if your floor might be off or the span? Measure how far off the water is from the stand and the floor, when you get it filled that much.

    Pulled this off Reef Central; Shimming can be dangerous if it isn't done properly. You'd be removing a significant amount of area over which the weight of the tank is being distributed if you don't shim properly. Based on your post, your tank is a 190g, but you didn't give the dimensions. I'd imagine it's either 4 or 5 feet wide based on what I found in a quick online search. Half a centimeter is less than a quarter inch. Over 4 feet, that is level.
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  2. #42
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    I think that it is in the basement so it should be on the slab.

  3. #43
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    but the slab isnt always level when its a floating slab. Hence the reason all of his walls are on sliding bolts essentially. I agree with I believe what murf is saying in that there is a tollerance to what is level over a span and 3/32" is a VERY minor difference. The slab right by where the corner of the tank is also starts sloping in towards that drain so not sure how far they feathered out the slope.

    Also did you make sure the stand was level without a tank on it? If it is very slightly off the foam will conform to it but it may take more pressure than what is being exerted right now by just the weight of the foam. Interesting how I had a 90g full with 100lbs of LR and 80lbs of LS sitting on a metal stand with foam between the two and the foam didnt compress nearly at all when the tank was flat against it. When removing the tank from the stand and sitting the tank at an angle on the foam (empty tank) it sank right in. So obviously the lbs/sq inch compression is pretty high.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe View Post
    Finally found some time for an update:

    The walls had to be modified to make room for the stand to make it through the hall. The stand is 124 inches long, 41 inches high, and 36 wide. The hallway wasn't big enough. The night before my in-laws arrived my wife heard me telling my youngest son "It's going in tonight. Get the saw". Probably not what she wanted to hear. Not the best timing I've ever done.


    The open wall space to the left will be turned into built in shelving for storage of all my junk. A door will be added to the far end of the hall to block off my office/ fish room/ man cave.


    Added a sink and rerouted some plumbing to make access easier. Thanks Levi and GreaseballPaul for the help! The 55 Gal barrels will go under the stand when I get some 1/4 inch line long enough to route it over from the RO/DI filter on the wall above the sink.


    Made some ceramic structures and frag plugs. I used Laguna B Mix 5 clay and fired it to a bisque cone 05 over at the Air Force Academy hobby shop. Here is my newest design before it went off to get fired.


    Side view.


    I had help from some of the church youth getting the tank onto the stand. About 800lbs lifted about 42 inches high. It took everything we had to keep it straight and get it onto the stand.


    The tank finally on the stand. For reference, the sump under the stand is a 72" long 150 gallon tank I modified. The red liner is tape I put on the edges of the 3/4" foam under the tank.


    I also put foam under the sump and put a layer of shower pan liner (40 mil PVC) to keep it all contained.


    I used quickrete construction adhesive to stick it to the floor and edges of the stand. I wanted to create a pan to catch water and keep the bottom of the stand dry. I ran the shower pan liner up the side wall where the stand butts against another room.


    I added a line that goes straight from the sump to the main drain so any build up of water will go right out. If it ever sees use, something has gone pretty bad wrong. Since that is likely, I'm glad Levi suggested the idea.


    The tank is on the stand and the sump is full. I put my old live sand in the refugium side - it looks like about 8.5 inches of a deep sand bed. I might take some out periodically after everything settles because I was planning on a 6 inch sand bed. I had the sand in a big black plastic bin with a heater and powerhead for a long time. I had at least two big nassarius snails living in there. I thought I got out all the living snails a long time ago. Those guys are tough!


    I added some Dr. Tim's nitrifying bacteria to the sump. I've used it before and it seems to really safely speed up the cycle. I've got some cleaned rock I'll be adding to the sump this weekend. There is no organic material left on the rocks so they should just collect the new bacteria. I'll be adding some copepods, amphipods, more clean up crew, and a few fish as soon as I double check the water and it looks good.
    I'm working on the plumbing for the tank and will post more updates as it moves along. I've got some other pictures of the install, but they are on a camera I can't get the pictures off right now.
    in one of the pictures it looks like the tank isnt sitting squarely on the foam on the one side, is this still the case? This could also be throwing off the compression of the foam allowing it to compress more in areas and less in areas than desired. Also could have happened when setting the tank down on the foam if not set uniformly.

  5. #45
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    Doyle and Roy stopped by last night and we all agreed it was pretty stinkin close to level, so doing anything might be more trouble than it would be worth. Started adding sand today!


    I put in 50 gals of salt water I had mixed up. That let me move the empty barrel to its new home under the stand. Then I moved water from the fresh barrel into the salt barrel, put the RO/DI barrel in its new home too. The valve on the side of the RO barrel is for gravity filling jugs when needed - like getting water for my CPAP machine. The wooden box on the floor covers my plumbing from the tank to the drain, and water lines. The platform helps me get up on the stand too. I left 10 inches of space behind the tank to have a platform to stand on to do maintenance.


    A shot from the other side. I'm surprised how little the sump looks from this angle. It's 72" long.


    I put in two little heaters and a WP10 just to get the water circulating a little and some heat for the 9 bags of live sand I added. I also scooped about 2 gallons of sand from the refugium to seed everything. I still need about 3 more bags of sand. I set the WP10 on wave just for kicks. I'm pretty impressed considering the tank length is 112"and the pump is not even facing the length go the tank. Check it out:


    I'll be mixing and adding more water all day. I'm adding Dr. Tim's Nitrifying bacteria once I get it filled and get the temp up. I'll be working on plumbing today. The rock wall will be started tonight. JJ, you asked if I was covering the overflows with the wall, and I am. I'm working my design to have piping behind it to run a closed loop of sorts to get flow into the back corners and behind the rockwork. If I have the space in the overflows, I'll put pumps in there to feed the lines and will have them come on occasionally to stir up things. If I don't have space, I'll probably tap a line off a manifold from the return pump and run it up the back of the tank and into the overflow to get into the piping. I'm not drilling any glass to do it.

  6. #46
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    I have the sand and water in the DT. It's cycling while I complete the plumbing. I put some larger rubble pieces at the bottom of the sand on the right side so jawfish and maybe garden eels would have a spot good for burrows. I covered this with another couple of inches of sand.


    I ran plumbing from the tank to the drain in the floor. I have my RO wastewater line, a 1.25 line for water change dumping, and a 1/2" line for sump leak drainage (hopefully never used). I painted my drain lines red, return lines blue, and I'll be putting in a closed loop of sorts that will have black plumbing.



    The drain end.


    I covered the plumbing with a wooden platform. It's useful for getting up on the stand as well as protecting the pipes running across the floor.


    Water changes will be done by leaving the pumps on and turning the valve from one of the drains shown here on the right. I'll watch the sump level and close the valve when I've drained enough. Even though I recently made some comments about not liking flex PVC, I used some I had laying around. There were a couple of areas where a little flexibility was a good idea. Beside the 55 gallon barrels where I might bump the pipes if I drag them out for cleaning and another spot where my return and drain lines needed to be in just about the same space and I wanted to route around them with some weird angles.


    I'm going to run two Jaebo DC1200 pumps internal for the returns. I have it set so I can open the valve in the middle and let one pump feed both return lines if I need to. The pipe that will be submerged is not painted.


    Here is a shot of it installed. The valve on the right is to the UV sterilizer. The black handled valve on the left runs over to feed media reactors.


    Here is the other side where I split the line for two media reactor hookups. The red plumbing to the right is two feeds for the refugium. I can control the amount going from one return into two sides of one end of the refugium. I split that off further to have a manifold for an algae turf scrubber or other things down the road.



    I made a couple of durso drains for the overflows.


    I have just enough room for a mini fridge/freezer to hold food right by the tank.



    Here is some of the stuff I'll be moving over into the DT within the next week. The elegance coral is doing really well and so is the gonipora to the right.



    I've planned out the rock walls on paper and have an idea of how I want my rock structure set up. Now I just have to get busy making it. I have some ideas that are a bit different for the overall look. It could be great or it could be cheesy. It will probably be up to individual preference, if I execute it well. We'll see.
    Last edited by Joe; 02-19-2014 at 08:13 PM.

  7. #47
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    Looks good, I love it when people take pictures of there builds.

  8. #48
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    Have you googled the mini fridge AUTO feeder? It uses dosing pumps and even feeds mysis

    Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    Have you googled the mini fridge AUTO feeder? It uses dosing pumps and even feeds mysis

    Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk
    I have seen a build before where someone did it. I'm considering it. I'll look it up again.

  10. #50
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe View Post
    I have seen a build before where someone did it. I'm considering it. I'll look it up again.
    when I get to the point at which you are, I really want to try it, looks awesome especially for when you go on vacation lol.

  11. #51
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    this is flippin awesome. thanks for the time you are investing into this build for us Joe. Love it. Not to many people would paint their plumbing. lol sure will make it easy to have the wife perform your maintenance.

    It really is coming together. subscribed and taking notes.

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    The painting was a pain because I sanded all the raised text and moulding tabs from the joints, and it was windy on the days I had to spray it. I was waiting a few extra days for the tank to cycle, so I figured I might as well do it. I wanted it to be easy to describe if something goes wrong while I'm on the road.


    Today Mike123 helped me get an Apex installed. I'm pretty impressed with it. It would have taken me a whole lot longer to set it up without help. Thanks Mike !


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    Don't look here for a comment.

  13. #53
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    Awesome glad to hear you got the apex!

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  14. #54
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    Looking great! So orderly. Keep the pictures coming!

  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe View Post
    The painting was a pain because I sanded all the raised text and moulding tabs from the joints, and it was windy on the days I had to spray it. I was waiting a few extra days for the tank to cycle, so I figured I might as well do it. I wanted it to be easy to describe if something goes wrong while I'm on the road.


    Today Mike123 helped me get an Apex installed. I'm pretty impressed with it. It would have taken me a whole lot longer to set it up without help. Thanks Mike !


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Hey no problem Im glad I could help. Cant wait to see that tank going.

  16. #56
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    Looks real good, Joe. You can also drill the floor drain PVC to take the 1/4 and 1/2 pipe so they flow right into the 90 and down the floor and not get pinched in the drain and possibly back up.
    The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever. - Jacques Cousteau


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  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murfman View Post
    Looks real good, Joe. You can also drill the floor drain PVC to take the 1/4 and 1/2 pipe so they flow right into the 90 and down the floor and not get pinched in the drain and possibly back up.
    Good idea Paul. I'll probably do that.

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    New tank build - somewhere around 480 total

    I fired up the pumps today. Apex turned on return pump one and two- good. Water change plumbing works with one twist of a valve- good. Apex turned on saltwater pump to replace drained water - good. Return plumbing works to each side- good. Overflows both work with two splits to the refugium and two runs into filter socks on the skimmer side- good. Small leak from pipe running to UV sterilizer because I forgot to glue it- not good. It was easy enough to turn one valve and stop flow to that and glue it- good now. Sound level is good. Dursos are doing their job. Multiple 200, and 300 watt heaters barely doing theirs. I have two Finnex 800 watt heaters arriving tomorrow. Once the glue dries, I'll test my valves to have either pump power both return outlets.


    As far as I can tell, the design is working as planned. I haven't tried the skimmer yet, I don't want to take out the nitrifying bacteria I added. Haven't turned on the sterilizer for the same reason.

    Now I just have to make rock walls, do my live rock placement, install the lights, patch the ceiling, patch the wall, make wainscoting to cover the stand, build in shelves/ cabinets into the the other wall, install two doors, build a new computer desk, and install some flooring to put the desk on. Easy......
    Don't look here for a comment.

  19. #59
    Registered User Levi's Avatar

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    Lol half way there

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    I'm steadily making slow progress. The 180 tank is gone and all of the corals and fish have been moved to the new tank. The refugium is pretty filled up.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    I made screens for the top with 1/4 clear netting from BRS and frame parts from Home Depot.
    [IMG][/IMG]


    I have two 800 watt Finnex heaters controlled by the Apex. They seem to be working very well.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    I'm making my rock wall and am experimenting with coating some styrofoam pieces and encasing them in to build dimension without a ton of weight. I have the bottom pieces soaking to see how they stand up.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Until I get the wall in, everything is just sitting in temp places on the sand. Once the walls go in, I'll aquascape and get some vertical stacking going. I don't have the overflows covered at all yet. I plan to make the overflow protector into the rock wall piece. I'm using gutter guard for the top where the teeth normally are. Front shot:
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Back shot:
    [IMG][/IMG]

    What's working well - The Jaebo pumps and the split design for two pumps to feed the system. If I want to back flush a pump to clean it out, I can turn it off and open the valve to let the other pump flush it. I lowered my return lock line tops and eliminated some bubbles I was getting in the display. Pods everywhere.

    What's not done that I really want done now- Lights aren't mounted. Plumbing from RO into salt mixing barrel isn't competed. ATO isn't set up yet. Wiring isn't where I want it yet. Lots of stuff.

    Stupid work, school, and life keep interrupting my progress.

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