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TRKDAYJNKE
02-05-2010, 10:27 AM
Just wondering if anyone is using LED light systems yet. Stumbled across an article talking about them achieving better results than halides but with alot less wattage and heat. Found a 60" system for over $3000! Guess its relatively new technology, just thought I'd ask.

Murfman
02-05-2010, 10:38 AM
AGGSWL uses a Solaris unit and MrLiriel has built a couple LED units for their tanks.

68sting
02-05-2010, 10:51 AM
Mike Drum has a high dollar set up. He loves it so far. The color adjustment is amazing I guess.

LooseHip
02-05-2010, 11:25 AM
Mike Drum has a high dollar set up. He loves it so far. The color adjustment is amazing I guess.

Yeah it is pretty nice, The adjustability on his LED system is pretty awesome. Any color bulb you want in a matter of seconds.

AGGJSW
02-05-2010, 11:52 AM
Yes, I'm running a Solaris I4. I like it but it's the only light I've every had any experience with so I have nothing to compare it with.

mrliriel
02-05-2010, 08:03 PM
I have built a couple they are good, I haven't had the balls to do an all out LED setup yet. All mine are supplemented with T5s. The technology is getting closer to being cost effective, I can almost produce a pendant that can compete with a 400W halide for under $500. I figure when you can make as much light as a 400W halide for under $300 that is when the market will explode. None of this was even possible last year.

Reefkoi
02-06-2010, 12:41 AM
They are getting better and cheaper weekly it seems, there are some $300 units coming to market soon that cover like a 250 halide and have all the benefits that go along with it......reduced heat, less wattage.....no bulb changes......lightweight ballast....

blue71
02-07-2010, 11:40 AM
I had led's on my picotope, but when I upgraded it was too expensive to do on my 70g.

Gomojoe
02-07-2010, 12:03 PM
I wonder if anyone is ever going to design them to be in the 20,000K color range? I know you can adjust most of them, but that is done by dimming the whiter LEDs. To me they just need to make one with more blue in it so you can get that color without dimming.

mrliriel
02-07-2010, 03:33 PM
I wonder if anyone is ever going to design them to be in the 20,000K color range? I know you can adjust most of them, but that is done by dimming the whiter LEDs. To me they just need to make one with more blue in it so you can get that color without dimming.

They can be made as blue as you want. I can make 20,000K real easy, the issue is that the blue LEDs don't put out as much light. So the further you diviate from 6500K the more LEDs you need to drive. Now on the plus side blue light is more useable.

blue71
02-15-2010, 05:01 PM
I want to do LEDs again.

mdrumm
02-15-2010, 08:39 PM
WE will have to have a meeting up north and you guys can check them out. They are sweet.

racer69
02-18-2010, 05:12 PM
I am now selling 120 watt led light fixtures that I think are awsome. They are very bright and put out a very impressive par reading. I think they are very close to or better than a 250 watt mh and have a nice crisp light. I will now be using these over my frag tanks at the shows so that people will be able to see how nice they.

Gomojoe
02-18-2010, 07:52 PM
Is it the type you brought to the x-mas party? How much are they?

Huhhhhh
02-18-2010, 11:55 PM
I agree lets see some pic's and get some more info on these.:smash:

racer69
02-19-2010, 09:52 AM
Is it the type you brought to the x-mas party? How much are they?

No, these are one fully enclosed fixture and bright enough to actually light a tank and grow corals.

Here ya go Tim...I will be getting more pics and actual specs later.

http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/5/gyo_fixture.jpg

racer69
02-19-2010, 09:59 AM
Here are the specs on the unit....

BENEFITS: Solid State, Cooler Running, High Efficiency, Dual Color Blended Full Spectrum LED lighting, This panel has no ballasts to burn out like other aquarium lights. It runs at a warm temperature rather than very hot which is common with most other inefficient lights. This more controlled running temperature reduces water evaporation and keeps rooms with tanks from getting uncomfortably hot in the summer months requiring additional air conditioning. They save electricity dual fold. This state of the art BLUE + WHITE LED panel tank light is extremely energy efficient paying for itself many times over each year in electricity savings. It saves 50% to 90% in energy consumption compared to incandescent bulbs or fluorescent tubes. Wide angle projection insures uniform coverage. This specialty WHITE + BLUE LED Aquarium light panel is designed to allow you to custom tailor the light spectrum for maximum growth and breeding condition.

The purity and power of this Blue + WHITE LED panel has been scientifically designed to provide large illumination coverage of 8 to 10 square feet. 14 to 16 hours per day is all that is necessary for maximum fish metabolism and Coral Reef. The typical white (metal halide) lights that run at high temperatures consume excessive electricity, wasting money. LEDs turn on instantly and can be turned on and off by hand each day or work well with all standard lamp timers.

These LED light panels are perfect as all year permanent Aquarium lights for Fish, Reef, Corals, Amphibians, Reptiles, Mammals, Insects and Plant tanks and benches.

Specifications:

LED quantity: 119pcs x 1 Watt LED (71 White + 48 Blue)

LED configuration: BridgeLux 1w/LED

Color: White and Blue mixed, White: 14000K(14000-20000k),

Blue: 460nm

Dimension: 15.75” x 8.38” x 2.80” Or 400X213X71 mm

Gross weight: 11 Pounds or 5kg

2" depth - 1537 Par

12" depth - 423 Par

24" depth - 182 Par

Huhhhhh
02-19-2010, 10:24 AM
Is that the unit Justin was developing?

Does it come in a 14k or 20k configuration?

racer69
02-19-2010, 12:21 PM
Here you go Tim, this is a picture of the tank that fixture is over in the first pic.

And no, that isn't the fixture Justin is trying to develop.


http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/5/gyo_fixture-tank.jpg

SpaceOps
02-20-2010, 05:27 PM
I like this project. LED project (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=14502630#post14502630) He only uses 12 high-output LEDs per linear foot, which increases the visual ripple effect.

I think he needs 25% more PAR for most SPS though. I've read a lot of studies by Dana Riddle and others that say most SPS would benefit from between 200 and 350 PAR--confirmed by Bob Fenner email this morning--(optimum range, aka saturation point). More than that would be a waste of energy because photosynthesis flatlines at saturation, and above 650 PAR could actually inhibit photosynthesis in all but the most light-demanding corals.

racer69
02-21-2010, 08:28 PM
Lets get some input from those of you that saw the lights in action at the swap meet in Denver. They are very bright aren't they? I think I already have about 5 orders for them.

Jiggyfly
02-21-2010, 09:19 PM
you can definitely count on my changeover. I think the shallow display will rock. your lights at the show were definitely spot on for hot look. the color rendering is great.can you shoot me a pm with a price the tank is 30x30

stacy7127
02-21-2010, 09:46 PM
Hey Todd shot me a price if you can for one that will work on a 24x24

Courtney
02-21-2010, 11:41 PM
I freaking loved them and Jason was telling me last night on the way home that he is going to get some when his taxes come back. THEY WERE SWEET!!!!

torquehound
02-22-2010, 08:56 AM
I am looking into a lower power LED setup as the main lighting in a FO puffer tank. Definately don't need something that powerful for that.

racer69
02-22-2010, 09:12 AM
Hey guys, they run $325 and they cover a 2'x2' area very nicely. Stacy, you may need two for a 4x4, but you should have a look at them first. I could bring them over and try them over your tank and see what you think.

AGGJSW
02-22-2010, 11:25 AM
Hey guys, they run $325 and they cover a 2'x2' area very nicely. Stacy, you may need two for a 4x4, but you should have a look at them first. I could bring them over and try them over your tank and see what you think.

I'm gathering they one come in one size? Meaning I'd need 3 to cover a 76"x30"x30"?

racer69
02-22-2010, 03:35 PM
Yeah, kinda like a halide covers a 2x2 area, these will do about the same.

Huhhhhh
02-22-2010, 07:44 PM
Those things are super duper bright man. I'd give the left side of my right nut if they came in a 20K color. I'd probably buy 6 of them if they did.

AGGJSW
02-22-2010, 07:46 PM
I'd give the other side of Tim's right nut for 3 of them in a 20k color.

How high from the water surface do they recommend?

racer69
02-22-2010, 10:18 PM
You place them a couple inches from the water. They are sealed up nicely and don't emit any heat at all. I can hold my hand on the glass even after hours of them being lit.

JLAURENCE32
02-25-2010, 10:35 AM
Todd, I assume you'll have one of these at Reefstock for us to check out?

racer69
02-25-2010, 11:59 AM
Yep, I will have two of them over my display.

rekn
02-25-2010, 01:19 PM
whats the max color temp? 14k?

racer69
02-25-2010, 02:18 PM
I would have to say 14-15k.

Reefkoi
02-25-2010, 03:56 PM
I need to throw a couple over the 600 and see what it looks like, I had a 1,000 watt bulb explode yesterday and by the time I caught it lost a bunch of SPS colonies and the big Gigas was very unhappy, he looks like he will make it though! With these LED's I'd never have that happen again.
C

racer69
02-25-2010, 04:21 PM
I don't know how much par you would get that deep in your tank Chris. But we should see just for the hell of it.

Murfman
02-25-2010, 07:24 PM
I don't know how much par you would get that deep in your tank Chris. But we should see just for the hell of it.

If you do, let me know!!!!

SpaceOps
02-26-2010, 10:22 AM
Most PAR readings are taken one or two-dimensionally--directly under the light source and along the axis of the fixture. It would be intersting to see PAR readings taken in all 3 dimensions at regular intervals, like 6 inch increments vertically, lengthwise and front-to-back. It would be beneficial to determining the best locations for coral placement throughout the tank.

SpaceOps
02-26-2010, 10:42 AM
Here's a good example: See the post by Bskinn77 http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/indepth-topics-disscussion/45223-my-diy-led-light-project-2.html
He has a Biocube 14 and a DIY LED with 6 Cree XRE Royal Blue LEDs and 6 Cree XRE Cool White LEDs. His PAR readings are the perfect range for SPS.

SpaceOps
02-26-2010, 10:50 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppVPqgzkVGI
Can you imagine using this cabability to simulate natural lighting conditions from sunrise to sunset with variable output LEDs?

mrliriel
02-26-2010, 01:23 PM
I have two custom LED fixtures that I made and both had to be supplemented with T5s to get what I consider a minimum PAR at the sand bed. Minimum PAR being 100 to 150 at the sand bed. That being said one of the two is two years old and the other is one year old. Emitters are much better now and reflectors (or optics) have advanced LEDs greatly. I feel that I could in-fact light my 125 with all LEDs now. With modern optics I wouldn't be concerend about penitrating depth of the 30G X-Tall we have in the bedroom either. The good news is that the drivers (think LED ballast) are compatable with newer emitters, so when I have the funds I can test these newer setups and run the PAR meeter under them.

SpaceOps
02-26-2010, 03:49 PM
I have two custom LED fixtures that I made and both had to be supplemented with T5s to get what I consider a minimum PAR at the sand bed. Minimum PAR being 100 to 150 at the sand bed. That being said one of the two is two years old and the other is one year old. Emitters are much better now and reflectors (or optics) have advanced LEDs greatly. I feel that I could in-fact light my 125 with all LEDs now. With modern optics I wouldn't be concerend about penitrating depth of the 30G X-Tall we have in the bedroom either. The good news is that the drivers (think LED ballast) are compatable with newer emitters, so when I have the funds I can test these newer setups and run the PAR meeter under them.

The new Crees have 107 lumen output. With lenses to focus the beams, there should be no problem.

the grim reefer
02-26-2010, 04:24 PM
They can be made as blue as you want. I can make 20,000K real easy, the issue is that the blue LEDs don't put out as much light. So the further you diviate from 6500K the more LEDs you need to drive. Now on the plus side blue light is more useable.

If you are using a PAR meter keep in mind they under read blue light. If you look at the output curve for something like the Cree Royal Blue it peaks where the Apogee PAR meters fall over the cliff as far as reading light. Could be they actually produce more PAR than a white unit.

One of these days I gotta get me a Spectrometer

Powerman
02-26-2010, 04:33 PM
I'm pretty happy with MHs... want to move to a 60x30x24 in a couple of years. Thought about supplementing that tank with more T5s.... but by a couple of years, I'm sure LEDs will be sweeping the hobby. As long as the PAR and intensity and color is there, it's all good.


So how much power does the modules featured here pull. A 250mh equivalent at how many watts?

SpaceOps
02-26-2010, 08:19 PM
LEDs use about a quarter or less of of the power as MH for the same PAR.

Powerman
02-26-2010, 10:29 PM
http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/5/gyo_fixture.jpg

I was curious what the actual power use was for this fixture..

SpaceOps
02-26-2010, 11:26 PM
Here's the thread by the guy who builds them. You can ask him directly.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=16505658

Based on having 119 1W LEDs plus 3 fans, maybe 130W total?

I'd say Racer69's price is as good as you'll get for that fixture.

Powerman
02-26-2010, 11:37 PM
Thanks a bunch Bob.

SpaceOps
02-27-2010, 11:40 AM
I looked up the specs for the Bridgelux LEDs he used. They use about 1.19W per LED, which means they should use 141W total (1.19w x 119 LEDs). The thing is that they put out 80-90 lumens each, which is about 60 times the output of "regular" 1 Watt LEDs.

It's too bad there's not a lot of LED before LED/after LED SPS growth information out there yet. I've found a couple though. Look for the pics posted by Mentol in this thread (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1639666&page=2). He also has closeups showing the polyp extension. The before/after interval is only 6 months. Not only has the growth spiked, but look at the improvement in pigmentation.

Here's another one. Look at the progression here (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1639666&page=3) by ****enscd.

Powerman
02-27-2010, 11:56 AM
So I know the is a ton of info from DIYers out there.... have not got that into LED yet..... but, what about dimming? What about controllers to drive dimming to be able to creat more natural sun rise/set and clouds.

I know Solaris has the built in controller that dims them and simulates clouds and stuff. Don't know is I care about clouds.... but actually simulating sunrise, high noon, and sun set would be awesome.

mrliriel
02-27-2010, 12:18 PM
The new Crees have 107 lumen output. With lenses to focus the beams, there should be no problem.

No the old crees that I used initially had that output. The newer ones are supposed to be 30% brighter per watt so they should be about 140 lumens given the same power useage.

mrliriel
02-27-2010, 12:26 PM
So I know the is a ton of info from DIYers out there.... have not got that into LED yet..... but, what about dimming? What about controllers to drive dimming to be able to creat more natural sun rise/set and clouds.

I know Solaris has the built in controller that dims them and simulates clouds and stuff. Don't know is I care about clouds.... but actually simulating sunrise, high noon, and sun set would be awesome.

You can get a dimmable driver easy, to control it you will need something with a 10V control. They only aquarium controler that I know of that can do that is a ProfiLux. There may be more but that is all I know of. Other than that you will have to manually turn the light up and down. Unless of course you know how to program a PLC then you can just purchase an industrial or commercial PLC and program it to adjust the 10V output that is tied into the dimmer.

I agree that a true day night cycle simulation could take some peoples tanks to a whole new level.

Edit to correct myself: The "Digital Aquatics ReefKeeper Lighting Controller RKM-ALC" has 10V control on it so anyone with a RKL or RKE should be able to program this module to simulate sun up mid-day and sundown with a dimmable driver.

mrliriel
02-27-2010, 12:28 PM
If you are using a PAR meter keep in mind they under read blue light. If you look at the output curve for something like the Cree Royal Blue it peaks where the Apogee PAR meters fall over the cliff as far as reading light. Could be they actually produce more PAR than a white unit.

One of these days I gotta get me a Spectrometer
Someone makes a PUR (photosynthetically USEABLE radiation) and it is supposed to be way more accurate for our useage. Unfortunatly I have yet to see one.

Powerman
02-27-2010, 01:01 PM
You can get a dimmable driver easy, to control it you will need something with a 10V control. They only aquarium controler that I know of that can do that is a ProfiLux. There may be more but that is all I know of. Other than that you will have to manually turn the light up and down. Unless of course you know how to program a PLC then you can just purchase an industrial or commercial PLC and program it to adjust the 10V output that is tied into the dimmer.

I agree that a true day night cycle simulation could take some peoples tanks to a whole new level.

Edit to correct myself: The "Digital Aquatics ReefKeeper Lighting Controller RKM-ALC" has 10V control on it so anyone with a RKL or RKE should be able to program this module to simulate sun up mid-day and sundown with a dimmable driver.

Thanks a lot..... and you know it does not matter if it's here.... we all know it's coming. That one trick alone would assure LEDs dominance. Either a built in module like Solaris, or modules to plug into controllers.

SpaceOps
02-27-2010, 01:07 PM
Well, I found one controller for everything that touches your tank. It's a cool $900.
http://www.ghl-direct.com/proddetail.php?prod=PL3-00001

There are a ton of LED dimmers out there, but they're not automatic.

SpaceOps
02-27-2010, 01:43 PM
No the old crees that I used initially had that output. The newer ones are supposed to be 30% brighter per watt so they should be about 140 lumens given the same power useage.

I stand corrected. I was referring to the XR-E Q5 (107 lm). I forgot about the XP-G R5 (139 lm).

SpaceOps
02-27-2010, 01:52 PM
The poor man's solution would be to have the LEDs broken into several circuits that are controlled by separate power supplies that can be switched on and off with digital timers.

It would be more of a stepped approach than fading in and out, but is a whole lot simpler and cheaper. No doubt someone will come up with a commercially available plug-and-play set of LED modules and programmable controller soon.

the grim reefer
02-27-2010, 02:00 PM
Someone makes a PUR (photosynthetically USEABLE radiation) and it is supposed to be way more accurate for our useage. Unfortunatly I have yet to see one.

According to Sanjay, Dana Riddle and GreenBean at RC who is a Marine Biologist (or at least has a PHD in it I believe) PUR is not as dramatic as most of those graphs show. I am not sure I have even seen one specifically formulated for underwater critters. Dana Riddle does say the Aquablue T5 lamp from ATI is about the closest thing to what most corals will see in nature something like 15 feet down, isn't much red in that lamp in contrast to the PUR curve. I would assume PUR for most corals would be shifted more torwards blue because of the way water filters out the red then green light first.

Powerman
02-27-2010, 02:27 PM
The poor man's solution would be to have the LEDs broken into several circuits that are controlled by separate power supplies that can be switched on and off with digital timers.

It would be more of a stepped approach than fading in and out, but is a whole lot simpler and cheaper. No doubt someone will come up with a commercially available plug-and-play set of LED modules and programmable controller soon.

Which is what I wanted to do on that future 180g with T5s. Two separate retros so at least I could do one then two then MHs then revers. But by then, if LEDs get the problems figured out either with more steps or variable... it will be the bomb.

Gomojoe
02-27-2010, 02:34 PM
So what is a good dimmable driver?

mrliriel
02-27-2010, 02:49 PM
So what is a good dimmable driver?

http://www.nanotuners.com/product_info.php?cPath=71&products_id=630
This meanwell driver is the one most use for dimmable drivers. If setup correctly it will illuminate 42 HO LEDs at 1W. According to its specs anyway, I would expect 36 to be a more realistic number.

SpaceOps
02-27-2010, 03:19 PM
So what is a good dimmable driver?

http://ledsupply.com/led-drivers.php

I love this one (http://ledsupply.com/quadpuck.php). It apparently can be controlled by a PC. I'm assuming the PC has to be on all the time, which could eliminate your power savings. Otherwise, you can hook it up to this (http://ledsupply.com/sdc-6.php) for manual control of up to 6 channels.

mrliriel
02-27-2010, 03:50 PM
I personally have used xitaniums in all my diy projects. They have the most predictable results with 120V AC power sources. But I'm sure by now there has to be something better on the market.

http://ledsupply.com/xitanium.php

SpaceOps
02-27-2010, 08:58 PM
OMG, look at this video (http://vimeo.com/7027340). I'm trying to get the guy who did it to share his secret.

mdrumm
02-27-2010, 09:54 PM
The aquaillumination modules can do this

SpaceOps
02-27-2010, 10:13 PM
Sure, with their proprietary LEDs. Can they do it with DIY LEDs?

mdrumm
02-27-2010, 10:41 PM
no. sorry.

SpaceOps
02-28-2010, 10:54 AM
Crud. Maybe I know someone who can help with a solution.

SpaceOps
02-28-2010, 12:28 PM
I found it! A complete how-to not only for the DIY high power LEDs, but how to build a custom controller that will fade the white and blue LEDs on and off for dawn and dusk. I'm going to build it.

I've also found others that monitor and control temp, pH, etc. They would be next.

mrliriel
02-28-2010, 12:40 PM
I found it! A complete how-to not only for the DIY high power LEDs, but how to build a custom controller that will fade the white and blue LEDs on and off for dawn and dusk. I'm going to build it.

I've also found others that monitor and control temp, pH, etc. They would be next.

Put your blue, and white on a different dimmable drivers. Then control them independantly. Nothing to it, just costs more.

Gomojoe
02-28-2010, 12:54 PM
I found it! A complete how-to not only for the DIY high power LEDs, but how to build a custom controller that will fade the white and blue LEDs on and off for dawn and dusk. I'm going to build it.

I've also found others that monitor and control temp, pH, etc. They would be next.

You gonna share?

SpaceOps
02-28-2010, 01:13 PM
Put your blue, and white on a different dimmable drivers. Then control them independantly. Nothing to it, just costs more.

Agree. The design controls each separately.

SpaceOps
02-28-2010, 01:14 PM
You gonna share?

Put the gun down first...

SpaceOps
02-28-2010, 01:21 PM
It's based on the open source hardware Arduino board. The complete build is detailed inside the user's manual link here (http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/showthread.php?t=363432). It's not your average DIY project. Most people probably can't do it.

There are a bunch of other Arduino-based projects for aquarium controls.

racer69
03-01-2010, 05:02 PM
Here's the thread by the guy who builds them. You can ask him directly.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=16505658

Based on having 119 1W LEDs plus 3 fans, maybe 130W total?

I'd say Racer69's price is as good as you'll get for that fixture.

Lol, this guy didn't build these units. They are made overseas (isn't everything) and built for my supplier. It does look as though he took it apart and took pictures of it.

There are a lot of diy threads out there on led lighting, but to be able to get the quality of construction (from the powder coated casing, the thick sealed glass, the curcuit boards and optics, and three fans) would be a real challenge for the price of each of these units. The manufacturer is making thousands of these and is able to get the pieces at pennies on the dollar.

Jessie has done some very cool things with leds and with the newer bulbs and optics could probably build some lights that can grow corals and have the punch to get deep into the water. It would more than likely be a retro type unit because to get this type of enclosure would be tough.

For anyone wanting to see these fixtures in action, you need to come to reefstock. I use them over my display frag tanks now for all the shows I go to.

SpaceOps
03-01-2010, 05:55 PM
You are absolutely correct. Here's what he told me: "my buddy's family owns a LED factory overseas... i gave them the specs and had them make it for me."

SpaceOps
03-16-2010, 09:44 AM
I noticed in the Reefstock pics that the LEDs were in use. How did they compare to the MH?

Gomojoe
03-16-2010, 09:53 AM
I think some of those LEDs they had there were brighter than MH! Of course that is just my calibrated eye measurements! lol! I'm hopefull they make progress with the LEDs like that Photon Canon that Ecoxotic was showing! 50W Single LED! Man that thing was bright! What I like about that is because it is a single point of light like MH so you'll still get the shimmer!

Murfman
03-16-2010, 10:28 AM
I love that photon cannon and if the numbers are good, I am gonna get one and start moving away from MH.

Gomojoe
03-16-2010, 10:32 AM
The only thing I didn't like about the one they showed there was that it was too white/yellow. Of course you could fix that with some T5 actinics to supplement. The other thing was that it didn't seem to spread a whole lot, but I would imagine they could fix that with different reflector/optics on it! Either way it was sweet!

Murfman
03-16-2010, 10:40 AM
That one they had on display was 7K spectrum for FW planted tanks. 12 will be released soon, along with specs and measurements. at 36" it has a 4' spread. They are also going to offer different focusing reflectors that are more oblong for narrower tanks. I will be able to put 3 Plasma cannon pendants and cover my 8' tank.

SpaceOps
03-16-2010, 10:47 AM
I can't find any specs on that one on their website, but I've seen claims that it has higher PAR values than a 250W MH. That's great. How much will they be charging?

Gomojoe
03-16-2010, 10:54 AM
Here is the article from reef builders!

http://reefbuilders.com/2010/03/13/ecoxotic-shows-photon-canon-led-light/

Murfman
03-16-2010, 10:55 AM
I was told by one of the reps $395, but I don't know if that was an event only price or not. I did find the light on reefbuilders and they list it higher. They are in the finishing stages right now, cleaning up the pendant and getting the 12ks ready. They said about 290 watts.

SpaceOps
03-16-2010, 11:08 AM
Here is the article from reef builders!

http://reefbuilders.com/2010/03/13/ecoxotic-shows-photon-canon-led-light/


Yep, that's the source I found. $600 would probably scare most people away, especially considering you'd need three over a 125 for the PAR equivalent of three MH. I'm going the DIY route because 1) I can; 2) I like the big cost savings; 3) I prefer the aesthetics of a hood; and 4) pendants look out of place with a 16 foot ceiling :D.

SpaceOps
03-16-2010, 11:09 AM
Is the intensity adjustable?

Murfman
03-16-2010, 11:11 AM
not that I am aware of

SpaceOps
03-16-2010, 11:16 AM
290W equivalent for 50W. That's fantastic.

racer69
03-16-2010, 01:00 PM
David, all leds when penetrating the water give the same shimmer as mh's. In fact I think they give off more.

Gomojoe
03-16-2010, 01:03 PM
Yeah, but with the array of LEDs it doesn't seem to be as great. From what I saw yesterday all of the arrays looked pretty flat and even, just like T5s or PCs. I think having so many LEDs blends the light together and hides the shimmer. Where as the single point of light that the MH put out is distinct! Just my opinion though!

SpaceOps
03-16-2010, 05:46 PM
An LED setup with fewer, but brighter, LEDs will increase the shimmer effect. I'd really love to see a Kill-a-Watt hooked up to one of the bright LED units. I saw four You Tube videos where they had tested various lighting systems with a Kill A Watt and a PAR meter. Damn impressive.

Here are the links:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iD5yy0RDwxQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AT7zrS4jV3o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7dKOFNKk2jg&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGHP8ViOiJQ&feature=related


And if you're wondering about shimmer with LED arrays, look at this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqfxfqJ4QZ4&feature=related He has 48 LEDs over the tank.

SpaceOps
03-16-2010, 05:56 PM
Ok, this may be a few LEDs too many. Definitely has no shimmer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uR8lwe0GMMo&feature=related