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JLAURENCE32
09-11-2008, 09:41 PM
Can T5's really do SPS and clams? Are they really even close to halides? The more I look into halides, the more problems I run into. I'm thinking about becoming a T5 guinea pig.

Freddie40
09-11-2008, 09:57 PM
I have had Clams and sps under my T5s for 5 years. At one point I had a par of 360 (75 gallon with 6 T5s). I backed down to 4 T5s and 2- VHO actinics. With this combo I have a par of 260 (on the sandbed - 23" under the bulbs, bulbs are 5" above the water). As a comparison my 29 gallon biocube (2-36 watt pcs) has a par of 100 on the 4" DSB (11" under the bulbs). For the T5s I use 2-6500Ks and 2-Blue+. I use Aquatinic reflectors and Icecap 660 ballasts.

Rex has 6-5 foot T5s over his 150. He has a par of 330.

You can keep anything you want under lights this bright.

Dave

bigsittingrock
09-11-2008, 09:58 PM
I have had t-5's for 5 months now and I am starting to really like them. It wasn't till I had my par tested that I came to that conclusion. For some of my corals, they seem to be too intense. I have lps that I had to put in my frag tank, which is PC lights and they started to do better. This isn't for sure as it could be some other element. My sps that I have recently put in there have excellent color and some have colored up to surprise me. I feel more confident in putting sps in then lps at the moment. As for my clam that recently died, who knows what it was that killed it.

Deuce67
09-12-2008, 05:20 AM
IIRC, you have a standard 125? If so, absolutely.

JLAURENCE32
09-12-2008, 06:53 AM
I have had Clams and sps under my T5s for 5 years. At one point I had a par of 360 (75 gallon with 6 T5s). I backed down to 4 T5s and 2- VHO actinics. With this combo I have a par of 260 (on the sandbed - 23" under the bulbs, bulbs are 5" above the water). As a comparison my 29 gallon biocube (2-36 watt pcs) has a par of 100 on the 4" DSB (11" under the bulbs). For the T5s I use 2-6500Ks and 2-Blue+. I use Aquatinic reflectors and Icecap 660 ballasts.

Rex has 6-5 foot T5s over his 150. He has a par of 330.

You can keep anything you want under lights this bright.

Dave

Hey Dave, does the Icecap 660 have to "overdrive" the bulbs or can you adjust it to run them at their normal wattage?

Murfman
09-12-2008, 09:26 AM
Joe, go with a Geisman unit, you wont be disappointed.

JLAURENCE32
09-12-2008, 09:33 AM
Man, I can't believe you guys aren't rippin' my a$$! Thanks! I know most people are so pro halides, and for good reason, but it seems like these t5's have come a long way with SPS keeping on shallower tanks. Good thing that's what I have.

Freddie40
09-12-2008, 09:35 AM
The icecap 660 is the "Only" ballast that you should use with T5s. They do overdrive the bulbs. I like the 660 because I when I changed to 2-VHOs I just had to change endcaps. Very versatile.

Dave

JLAURENCE32
09-12-2008, 09:36 AM
Joe, go with a Geisman unit, you wont be disappointed.

The german Giesemann does seem like the pioneers of the best T5 technology.

Reefkoi
09-12-2008, 09:43 AM
Im not sure who would be pro mh only, I don't have anything but mh but I certainly don't think they are the only way to go. I love t-5's in fact the t-5 only tank at Aquamart is one of my favs. If I could afford the many bulbs and could live without the shimmer I'd try them. I just think a display without shimmer is lacking that natural looking effect. That's the only downside (other than the cost of many bulbs on a very large tank) on a smaller tank with 8 bulbs you are break even with mh as far as bulb replacement cost I believe.
C

Freddie40
09-12-2008, 09:48 AM
Do you want a fixture or are you going to do DIY?

Dave

Deuce67
09-12-2008, 10:03 AM
Nah, we are not gonna rip you a new one. Now if you get one of those cheap ebay ones, the one with no individual reflectors, we may then lol!

the grim reefer
09-12-2008, 10:18 AM
Giesemann jumped on the T5 train a few years ago by partnering with D&D on the lamps. I am not sure if ATI was first but they have certainly been the most dominant in europe since before I got in the hobby. The Giesemann stuff isn't bad as far as lamps but their T5 fixtures are nothing special, I'd rather have a Tek. I am doing a test now with a Actinic Plus Giesemann T5 and the Blue Plus ATI T5 and at 3 months the Blue Plus has a slightly better output by about 5 percent. After a 100 hour burn in they had been nearly even.

Freddie40
09-12-2008, 10:58 AM
I just looked at the description of the Geisemann fixture that Marine Depot sells. It looks as though it only has a single reflector (CAD developed reflector for T-5 lamps). There is no mention of a fan to cool the unit. Also, no mention of the ballasts. The first 2 points alone make this an extremely poor unit.

I like the aquatinic Fixtures or the ATI Fixtures the best. The Aquatinic solar flare uses Icecap SLR and IceCap ballasts and has fans to cool the unit. The ATI fixtures use Icecap ballasts with ATI reflectors and have fans to cool the unit. Both are very very good.

The most important questions you need to answer before you make a decision:

1) what are the dimensions of your tank?
2) Do you want a fixture or do want to mount endcaps into a canopy?
3) What do want to raise?

Dave

Murfman
09-12-2008, 12:02 PM
Check out this set up and Geisman lighting;

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1271003&perpage=25&pagenumber=16

the grim reefer
09-12-2008, 12:13 PM
Check out this set up and Geisman lighting;

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1271003&perpage=25&pagenumber=16

Only lighting I saw in that thread is a Sfigiloi stealth T5 unit, which by the way are nice as long as the cooling option is added, without it they are a POS. I only looked ahead 6 pages, have they since switched to something else?

JLAURENCE32
09-12-2008, 12:37 PM
I just looked at the description of the Geisemann fixture that Marine Depot sells. It looks as though it only has a single reflector (CAD developed reflector for T-5 lamps). There is no mention of a fan to cool the unit. Also, no mention of the ballasts. The first 2 points alone make this an extremely poor unit.

I like the aquatinic Fixtures or the ATI Fixtures the best. The Aquatinic solar flare uses Aquatinic SLR and IceCap ballasts and has fans to cool the unit. The ATI fixtures use Icecap ballasts with ATI reflectors and have fans to cool the unit. Both are very very good.

The most important questions you need to answer before you make a decision:

1) what are the dimensions of your tank?
2) Do you want a fixture or do want to mount endcaps into a canopy?
3) What do want to raise?

Dave

Hey Dave, I have a 125 gal, 6ft long, (23" tall?) and I have been looking at two of the 36" four bulb icecap retrofits with the 660 ballast for under my canopy. I want SPS corals, maybe clams too.

JLAURENCE32
09-12-2008, 12:43 PM
Do you need fans on the bulbs or the ballast?

Freddie40
09-12-2008, 01:16 PM
Joe,

2 of the 36" Icecap retros are very nice. You will be able to keep anything. You want fans to blow on the endcaps for best results. I had clams for many years under T5s. A disease killed them back in March. I now have 2 new clams that are really doing well. As long as you use the heatsink with the ballasts you will be fine.

Dave

Freddie40
09-12-2008, 01:35 PM
BTW: Grim had a Sfigiloi canopy to test. It did not have cooling, was (imho) UGLY, and was very expensive when compared to the Aquatinic or ATI fixtures.

Dave

PotHuntR
09-12-2008, 03:20 PM
Why do you think the heat sink is so important?

the grim reefer
09-12-2008, 03:51 PM
Why do you think the heat sink is so important?

It is harder for a ballast to drive T5 lamps than T12's. Ice Cap did a whole lot of testing before they got into the T5 game and based on their testing the ballasts really need the heatsink to keep them from overheating when used on T5's. I would take their word on that. They tend to shoot pretty straight.

Murfman
09-12-2008, 04:15 PM
Only lighting I saw in that thread is a Sfigiloi stealth T5 unit, which by the way are nice as long as the cooling option is added, without it they are a POS. I only looked ahead 6 pages, have they since switched to something else?

Nope, you are right and I am a dumba$$. I knew he had unique set up but had geisman on the brain.

JLAURENCE32
09-15-2008, 07:38 PM
Joe,

2 of the 36" Icecap retros are very nice. You will be able to keep anything. You want fans to blow on the endcaps for best results. I had clams for many years under T5s. A disease killed them back in March. I now have 2 new clams that are really doing well. As long as you use the heatsink with the ballasts you will be fine.

Dave

You think a 36" icecap retro overdriven 4 bulb setup per side is enough for SPS Dave? Grim was saying it's 'iffy', so I was thinking about 6 per side but 'normally' driven. Don't know if that's better or worse.

Freddie40
09-15-2008, 07:44 PM
On my tank (75 gallon) I have 4-48" T5 bulbs. With these bulbs (2-6500k and 2-Blue+) I get a par of about 220. The color is yellow. I did this bcause I wanted to add 2-4' VHO Super Actinic bulbs. With the 6 bulbs running I get a par of 260.

I think that with your 4 bulb setup (per side) you will have similar numbers as mine. If you are only going to run these bulbs do 2-AquaBlues and 2-Blue+. Rex has tis combo and I like the look. This will also leave you the opportunity to add 2 more T5s per side or 2-6' VHOs. I really like the look of my tank with the 4 T5s and 2VHOs. The 2-VHOs mellow out the yellow just right and I love the dusk to dawn mode :)

That being said you will be able to keep anything alive under 4-T5s per side.

Dave

JLAURENCE32
09-15-2008, 08:04 PM
Man, Dave your quick! Thanks for the input.