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mrliriel
08-11-2008, 09:22 PM
My wife has had a makeshift fixture for some time now. So I'm looking into designing one of my own. I have many goals for this project and the first is that I increase PAR at the sand bed and reduce consumption of energy. Right now the plan is to pack 12 X 3' 39W and 6 X 2' 24W t5 reflectors and lamps in there. Due to the fact that my wife does not want to give up the shimmer effect of the halides I will be also cramming 3 70W metal halides into the fixture. Right now I am mostly considering a combo of black acrylic and aluminum to build the fixture. Here is the current sketch of the shell of the fixture...

Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/light_fixture.png

The build should start in the next couple weeks.

Murfman
08-11-2008, 09:27 PM
Very nice Jesse, keep us posted on how it turns out and post pix. Looks like a killer project!

Reefkoi
08-11-2008, 09:37 PM
Holy smokes thats a ton of light! T-5's are very intense, I think you will have too much light actually.
For the size tank you have there I'd do 10 lamps max I think and no halides. You will have a lot of heat with more bulbs than that, you'de need a chiller I'm thinking as well.
C

racer69
08-11-2008, 10:01 PM
I think it is cool to cram that many lights in one canopy. If it does seem to be too much you can always pull some as it easier to take them out than to put them in.

mrliriel
08-12-2008, 07:30 PM
Holy smokes thats a ton of light! T-5's are very intense, I think you will have too much light actually.
For the size tank you have there I'd do 10 lamps max I think and no halides. You will have a lot of heat with more bulbs than that, you'de need a chiller I'm thinking as well.
C

Well the halides are just going to be there for viewing pleasure. And I totally agree with you, but, my wife likes the shimmer so I'm going to cram them in there so that when we are veiwing the tank they can give that nice shimmer effect.

Reefkoi
08-12-2008, 08:34 PM
I can certainly understand the shimmer that's why I run halides, if it weren't for the shimmer I'd run all t-5 I think.
I still think that may be too much t-5 but maybe if a lot of the bulbs are blue you'll be ok. Seriously I've seen corals that bleach out from too much t-5 it's not just metal halide that can cause bleaching, t-5 can surely do it as well.
Your canopy design is awesome though I can't wait to see it in person, it looks very sleek and modern to me.
C

JLAURENCE32
08-12-2008, 08:48 PM
Looks good Jesse. I like the aluminum look too, me being a machinist and all. Don't forget about the fans. Gotta find a way to put them in.

mrliriel
08-13-2008, 07:13 PM
Looks good Jesse. I like the aluminum look too, me being a machinist and all. Don't forget about the fans. Gotta find a way to put them in.
It will have intake and exaust fans, I will most likely be integrating some kind of timer system as well. I'm thinking 120mm low rpm 12v fans.

I was originally considering making it all aluminum, however, sheets of aluminum have gotten kinda pricy(but if you know of some good deals out there please point me to them.) So at the moment I think black acrylic is the best option.

I will be working some overtime next week and the week following that I will be starting the project.

I may just start off with 10 X 3' 39W and 4 X 2' 24W t5s plus the halides and see how the colors react. Its going to be slow build anyway cause I'm going to be working 50 to 60 hours a week for the next couple months.

Thanx for the support.

aquaman2000
08-13-2008, 08:15 PM
Why not just run all MH? like three 250 Watt HQI? You get tons of PAR, the shimmer and only have to replace 3 bulbs every 7 to 12 months instead of 20. $$$$$$$$$$$

Also with 12 bulbs at 39 Watts is a total of 468 Watts + 6 bulbs at 24 Watts is a total of 144 Watts + 3 bulbs at 70 Watts is a total of 210 Watts for a grand total of 822 Watts. That is a ton of electricity!!! Three 250 Watt HQI would be a way better way to go for only 750 Watts total. Add a couple T5's for actinic and call it good.

I have lit 180's and grow SPS on the bottom with three 250 HQI... Talk to jiggyfly about his 400 HQI's if you really want some light!!!! That is what I putting on my 240 72L X 24W X 32T.

JMHO

mrliriel
08-13-2008, 08:41 PM
Why not just run all MH? like three 250 Watt HQI? You get tons of PAR, the shimmer and only have to replace 3 bulbs every 7 to 12 months instead of 20. $$$$$$$$$$$

Also with 12 bulbs at 39 Watts is a total of 468 Watts + 6 bulbs at 24 Watts is a total of 144 Watts + 3 bulbs at 70 Watts is a total of 210 Watts for a grand total of 822 Watts. That is a ton of electricity!!! Three 250 Watt HQI would be a way better way to go for only 750 Watts total. Add a couple T5's for actinic and call it good.

I have lit 180's and grow SPS on the bottom with three 250 HQI... Talk to jiggyfly about his 400 HQI's if you really want some light!!!! That is what I putting on my 240 72L X 24W X 32T.

JMHO
Because not all of thoes t5s have to be run at the same time.

The vast majority of the light will come from the 468 W of 3' t5s. The 2' lamps will be for a couple hours around high noon and the halides will be for veiwing reasons only.

468 W is far less energy than 750W of halides and it will emit more light.

The next reason to go with t5s is that better fine tuning of the light spectrum can be done. With more lamps it is possible to fine tune that balance between blue and white and intensity to our exact liking.

Finally if I wanted to run 250w MH lamps I have a few in the closet I would just run them. The problem here is that I am already paying an extra $60 on my electric bill and if I could get that down a little between my two tanks then it would be worth it for me and for the environment.

aquaman2000
08-13-2008, 09:09 PM
I feel your pain on the electric bill!!! I have been stream lining my system also. The bank account and the environment will thank you.

Murfman
08-13-2008, 09:13 PM
I think I am going to use candles......

aquaman2000
08-13-2008, 09:15 PM
Hold three 8 cell mag lights over the tank.

Dreamer
08-14-2008, 12:15 PM
Another thing you may want to think about with your design. As everyone has already stated your gonna have alot of heat with your design as far as I can tell You have the front higher than the back and you stated you were planning on plastic on a metal frame. Heat rises so if you have alot of it and no place for it to migrate to your plastic may melt. So even if the back is open heat will build in front as it will as travel path of least resistance. What ever you decide to do good luck with it. Keep us posted so we can learn from it as well

Thank you
Dreamer

Kirblit
08-14-2008, 04:30 PM
One last thing to consider is that with that many T-5's you are going to lose some of the "shimmer" anyways. The T-5's will predominately light the tank and will kind of "drown" out the halides. I know that when I turn my T-5"s off I can see more "shimmer" than when they are on and I only have 2 39w on a 125 and they are actinic. Just something to consider.

mrliriel
08-14-2008, 07:17 PM
Another thing you may want to think about with your design. As everyone has already stated your gonna have alot of heat with your design as far as I can tell You have the front higher than the back and you stated you were planning on plastic on a metal frame. Heat rises so if you have alot of it and no place for it to migrate to your plastic may melt. So even if the back is open heat will build in front as it will as travel path of least resistance. What ever you decide to do good luck with it. Keep us posted so we can learn from it as well

Thank you
Dreamer

It won't be an issue, even though the scetch shows the top closed in. It will not be, I will have 3 or 4 120mm fans on the top and possibly two temperature controled fans on the sides. The front is taller than the back and I will have a mitigation plan in place to keep heat from getting trapped. Our house is climate controlled and I don't forsee there to be an issue.

mrliriel
08-14-2008, 07:20 PM
One last thing to consider is that with that many T-5's you are going to lose some of the "shimmer" anyways. The T-5's will predominately light the tank and will kind of "drown" out the halides. I know that when I turn my T-5"s off I can see more "shimmer" than when they are on and I only have 2 39w on a 125 and they are actinic. Just something to consider.

You have a point I have not considered. I may have to order a 70w halide pendant, ballast, and lamp in advance to see what I'm getting into before investing in three of them.

JLAURENCE32
08-14-2008, 09:02 PM
Hey Jesse, what program did you draw those plans with?

mrliriel
08-14-2008, 09:21 PM
Hey Jesse, what program did you draw those plans with?
Google Sketch-UP. Eric gave me this fine gem (or gave me the link anyway.) Its free for the non-pro version. Its a bad-a$$ little program and once you spend about 4 to 6 hours using it you can draw mock-ups super fast and they look totally professional.

Because there has been some misunderstanding about this fixture and a couple here think I am making a hot box and not a light fixture I went ahead and put squares (to scale for 120mm fans) to represent fans. I also put extruded text in the boxes that says "fan" however, because G sketch up dosn't allow me to increase the resolution of the export you cannot read the word "fan."

Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/light_fixture2.png

mrliriel
08-14-2008, 09:29 PM
I think I am going to use candles......

I was going to just light a couple cats or dogs on fire to light the tank, but my wife said no. So I had to actually put my electrical skills to work.

the grim reefer
08-27-2008, 09:27 PM
I don't hang around here enough

You ever think about trying high powered LED's instead of Halides for shimmer? Not sure 70 watt halides are really going to give you a whole lot of shimmer with the T5's on

mrliriel
08-27-2008, 10:03 PM
I don't hang around here enough

You ever think about trying high powered LED's instead of Halides for shimmer? Not sure 70 watt halides are really going to give you a whole lot of shimmer with the T5's on
I have looked into them but most of the 3+ Watt leds require a heatsink of some kind and I haven't yet found thoes. Mouser sells quite a selection of the leds themselvs but either I don't know the keyword or they don't carry the heatsinks. I will have to do further research.

You have always been a good help on reefcentral grim thanx for stoppin in here to give out some advise.

mrliriel
09-28-2008, 11:56 AM
Well it has been a while since the update. I have most of the supplies and have gotten rolling. I want the power savings of running T5s and still want the shimmer effect. Initially I was thinking 70W halides, however, after talking to Grim I decided to give High Intensity LEDs a shot. The cost of entry on the two was about the same so if this idea fails I won't be out any more money than with the halides. At the moment I have only been shipped 12 of the 18 LEDs that will be operating, however, I had the LED driver and the aluminum angle to mount them to so I decided to mount what I have and take some pics.

One Cree Q5 XR-E Q5 bin emitter and the advanced ballast Xitanium 40W LED driver. These LEDs produce a 6700 to 10,000k color spectrum and will produce 107 lm of light when driven at 350ma, 170lm @ 700ma, and 210 @ 1000ma. How this will translate to PAR I don't know but we will see next time I get my hands on the clubs PAR meter.

Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/dscf2447.jpg

Next is a pic of how much thermal compound you should put on the back of the PCB and the pic after that is what that looks like spread out.

Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/dscf2449.jpg
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/dscf2450.jpg

And finally here is what they look like lit up. These were so intense in person that I still have a white spot burnt into my retina. This pic only captures 7 of the 12 lit.

Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/dscf2453.jpg

So I'm hoping that this will provide good shimmer effect with the T5s and soon enough we will see.

mrliriel
09-30-2008, 07:19 PM
Here is a shot of the partially completed hood with some 60" T5 reflectors sitting on the floor inside it.

Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/dscf2455.jpg

Reefkoi
09-30-2008, 07:24 PM
Looks like you are gonna have one hell of a bright tank there!

C

Huhhhhh
09-30-2008, 09:32 PM
It will be very interesting to see the outcome of what thinking outside the box will do on this setup. You may have just come up with a whole new marketable lighting system here. Great job.

mrliriel
10-01-2008, 06:18 PM
It may actually be too much for the tank its going on which is mostly softies. But I can always turn down the day cycle or turn off some of the lamps.

mrliriel
10-11-2008, 08:17 PM
Another update: I just got done putting in the switches and installing the 3 amp breakers to the fixture. 3 amps may seem like too much, however, they are not rated for continuous loads so they will trip at 2.6 amps under a continuous load. I will be putting a load of 2.3 amps on each breaker. Assuming any arcing or ground faults occur under that hood the ballast will overdraw the breaker and cause the breaker to trip and the lights attached to the other two breakers will be un-affected and continue to provide the tank light.

I am still polishing that side of the acrylic so it still looks kinda dull. As for all the cat hair on it thats something to bring up with my wife.

Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/dscf2467.jpg

notchback5.0
10-24-2008, 05:09 PM
any updates on this? I did an experiement with an led flashlight I have, and the shimmer is awesome. I was thinking about building something like this but was wondering if there is a write up regarding the correct led's required. I have an old moon light fixture that ran 6 led's with an adjustable riostat. Will that controler work for these types of leds?

mrliriel
10-24-2008, 05:46 PM
You probably would not get enough light out of a moon light to get shimmer. The other lights would drown it out. What you need are some high intensity LEDs and they run about $6 a piece. Then the driver runs about $30 to $50 depending on how many you want it to drive. I will be running 40W total of LED, however, you could most likely get shimmer with far less.

As for updates, none ATM I am still assembling things and have pretty much every part I need. I may have some good progress this weekend but that will depend on how lazy I feel.

mrliriel
10-24-2008, 05:50 PM
This driver would drive up to 6 HO LEDs and would be plenty to create shimmer.

http://www.ledsupply.com/xi-led120a0350c33f.php

JLAURENCE32
10-24-2008, 05:53 PM
Jesse, are you putting 60" T5's on a 72" tank?

mrliriel
10-24-2008, 05:53 PM
These are the LEDs I used they are Cree XRE Q5 bin. They are the brightest in their price range. You should be only looking at Cree and Seoul Semiconductor brand LEDs.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394

There are some that are three to four times brighter but they cost about $35 to $40 per led.

mrliriel
10-24-2008, 05:54 PM
Jesse, are you putting 60" T5's on a 72" tank?

Yes, that way I can still house lower light corals on the end of the tank.

JLAURENCE32
10-24-2008, 05:55 PM
I'm thinking about doing the same thing. Do you know anyone else that has done this? Any pics or anything?

mrliriel
10-24-2008, 07:40 PM
Nope I will be the first one, Jimmy Hoffa tried it but disappeared before its completion.

Yeah its been done, I however have only seen pics of a guy that did it and put the lamps only 4" over the water. The net effect of this was that the last 3" of both sides of the tank looked very dark. I will be mounting mine about 6" over the water giving the light more space to diffuse before hitting the water.

I have read and seen about 4 or 5 examples of this setup in the T5 Q&A thread on RC. Your best bet is to wade through the *** ton of posts and thread splits on there if you want to see pictures.

JLAURENCE32
10-24-2008, 09:31 PM
That's the only place I've seen it too. I want to put them 8" up and inline in the center, so the fans can blow right across the endcaps together. I'm hoping that's enough light spread. If there's dark spots at the ends, then I'm gonna stagger them. It's just harder to get the fans on the ends. You'd have to add more fans. Also, different type bulbs might be staggered to different sides, making the color uneven.

mrliriel
10-25-2008, 10:09 AM
I don't think it will be that big of a problem. I am also going to stagger mine some. Photos tend to over exxagerate ligting issues in your tank just because of the light correcting features they put into the cameras.

mrliriel
10-25-2008, 05:20 PM
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/img_0003.jpg
A shot of the 120mm fan on the one end. There will be another on the other side.

Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/img_0004.jpg
A shot of the ballasts. There are 2 workhorse 5s and 2 workhorse 8s. Originally I was going to run all workhorse 5s so that I could control each and every lamp individually, however, I decided later that controlling 2 at a time would be fine.

JLAURENCE32
10-25-2008, 08:32 PM
Looks good Jesse! I'd like to see it when it's done. You guys gonna host a meeting?

mrliriel
10-25-2008, 08:54 PM
We may next year some time. My house is kinda small so it would have to be during the summer when we could stuff some people outside.

Also as you know because you have been to my house, I have been battling an algae problem in my 72g bowfront. *** tons of water changes, changes in lighting, biodigest, carbon, GFO, snails, sea hairs, urchins nothing has put a dent in that crap. So I don't really want anyone over till I get that tank under control.

Huhhhhh
10-25-2008, 09:15 PM
I hope the gas cans have top off water in them. Never thought about using those before, good idea.

liriel
10-25-2008, 09:26 PM
Funny thing, the ATF came by to ask us about one of the neighbors, and they hoped the gas cans had water in them, too ;) Yes, we use 5 gallon gas cans from wal-mart to haul our water. I can carry one, and they are cheap. Works pretty well, actually.

we'll see about the meeting. I have more stuff than house, and as Jessie said, his tank is still a work in progress. I do have a great patio, but even 15-20 people is pushing it in this itty bitty place. Might be private viewings on the light-fixture-of-doom for a while

JLAURENCE32
10-25-2008, 09:45 PM
Did you get the patio finished, miss new booty?

liriel
10-26-2008, 09:19 AM
My lovely hubby paid to have it done. It's some of the best concrete work I've ever seen. It's a lovely patio, but it will never hold 50 people! :)

mrliriel
10-26-2008, 09:56 PM
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/img_0007.jpg
The moonlights. We have a really good picture of how the lights end up mixing, however, when I upload it the server here keeps making it solid black. Anyway here is the moonlight setup. There are 12 5mm LEDs here driven by a Qualcomm cell phone charger. The lamps I ordered from Mouser and they range in price from $.80 to $1.20 each. If I remember correctly the total order for thoes LEDs ended up being around $15 with shipping. Supposed to be Purple, Deep Blue, and Turquoise. The photo makes the Purple look pink, and the Turquoise looks green. When they all diffuse together the color is a deep blue with a hint of purple.

mrliriel
11-09-2008, 07:05 PM
Getting a little closer. All these images were taken with the ambient lighting on in the room, however, the camera adjusted when the t5s are turned on and that is why the background is so dark. Only 4 of the 6 lamps and reflectors are installed but are overdriven from 80W per lamp to 100W.

Pic one t5s off.
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/dscf2478.jpg

Pic two all lamps on and warmed up. Note how diminutive the VHO LED lamps are in comparison to the T5s. Lamps are as follows from top to bottom: ATI Pure Actinic, ATI Aquablue Special (12000k,) ATI Blue Plus (22000k,) ATI Pure Actinic.
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/dscf2485.jpg

IRL the two actinics appear more purple and more dim than they show in the photos. If any of the lamps look ****eyed thats because they are, I tilted the two end reflectors, endcaps, and lamps 5 degrees so that I'm not wasting a bunch of light illuminating the back of the rock and the carpet in front of the tank.

For the final two lamps I will most likely run an ATI pro-color (red and pink spectrum) and either an Aquablue Special or a Blue Plus. It will depend on when I put this on the tank if I want more white or more blue.

xsocali
11-09-2008, 07:35 PM
Looking real good...cann't wait to see it on the tank.

LDogg
11-09-2008, 07:40 PM
very nice. it looks very professionally done.

Reefkoi
11-09-2008, 07:41 PM
So when will this thing be lighting the tank?? I'd love to see some pics of the corals under it

mrliriel
11-09-2008, 09:18 PM
Well it could have been tonight but I made a small oversight and I need to do some mods to it. My original plan was to allow all the softies to acclimate to the new lights before adding the extra two lamps. Unfortunately when I bought my tank I got one hell of a deal and being that I only had fish only salt tanks before it I didn't think about overflows and that kind of stuff. So I have a hang on overflow with a u-tube that I need to cut a hole in the back for. I really wish I would have had a hole cut for the overflow and return in this thing before we got it going. But hindsight is 20/20.

So the answer to that is when I get done touching it up with a saw and a rotozip. Then I will do before and after pics.

Reefkoi
11-09-2008, 09:32 PM
cool I look forward to the pics..........and seeing it in person at a future meeting :D

mrliriel
11-15-2008, 08:54 PM
Not quite complete but on the tank none the less. I will be taking some pics tomorrow, I didn't want to kick all the lights on and disturb the sleeping fish and corals.

Here is a pic of the main paly patch with only 2 T5s on and the LEDs. Sorry I didn't bother to scrape any off the algae off the glass.
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/dscf2515.jpg

With two lamps only about 200W of total consumption the tank seems even brighter than with 400 total watts of PCs that were on the tank before. The LEDs provide awsome shimmer. In fact more so than the 150w MH that was on there. I will report back when I see what the situation is when the RK2 fires up 4 lamps tomorrow. The peice of aluminum that I mounted the LEDs on gets scorching hot, so I may need to find a way to cool them better. I am going to look up the specs for the LEDs that I used and see what their operating temp is supposed to be and make a decision based upon that.

JLAURENCE32
11-15-2008, 10:44 PM
Man, the colors, the colors! What bulbs are you using?

mrliriel
11-15-2008, 10:59 PM
That photo is with one ATI true actinic, and one ATI Aquablue special on, and then the 10000k Cree Q5 Bin LEDs being driven at 600mA. I can't wait to see the look when all 4 T5s fire up tomorrow. My current setup is ATI true actinic, ATI Blue+, LEDs, ATI AB Special, ATI true actinic. After I look at the tank tomorrow I'm going to decide what my center two lamps are going to be, most likely an ATI procolor, and another Blue+.

And you haven't even seen any pics of the Rics in there.

mrliriel
11-15-2008, 11:02 PM
Cree says the LEDs can be run all the way up to 300F so I'm going to just let them go how they are for now and if they burn up I will order some brighter more efficient emitters and look into adhering some heatsinks to the angle.

JLAURENCE32
11-15-2008, 11:05 PM
The ATI bluepluses are the bomb. I'm interested in trying a Procolor too.

Huhhhhh
11-16-2008, 12:43 AM
Man that looks great for only two bulbs, can't wait to see it with all 4 on.

mrliriel
11-16-2008, 01:33 PM
Before the new setup:
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/before.jpg

New setup with two lamps on:
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/twolampswholetank.jpg
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/foxcoral2lamp.jpg

New setup with two T5s on and the supplemental LEDs.
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/2lampledafter.jpg
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/2lampledfoxhammer.jpg
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/blasto.jpg

More pics to follow.

liriel
11-16-2008, 01:54 PM
Looks good - I can't wait to get home to see it. What a lovely surprise. I won't even nag about not being able to see what the hood look. Nice to see everything is still alive ;) will be interesting to check the par. Yay for getting rid of horribly jury-rigged fixtures!

mrliriel
11-16-2008, 02:49 PM
The new setup with four T5s on and supplemental LEDs:
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/4lampafter.jpg
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/4lampblasto.jpg
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/4lampfox.jpg
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/4lampric.jpg
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/4lampzoasrics.jpg

A little purple for my taste but when the corals get done acclimating to the new setup I am going to add two more lamps and most likely take out one of the two actinics for another higher par lamp.

Reefkoi
11-16-2008, 02:51 PM
Looking at the pics I like the bluer look better, it'll grow on you ;)

mrliriel
11-17-2008, 06:08 PM
Due to some oversight yesterday I didn't notice that my 22000k lamp was not lit. So here is the final pic with all four lamps plus the LEDs on. It dosn't look quite as blue in person.
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/4lampledafter2.jpg

Murfman
11-17-2008, 07:45 PM
That is pretty sweet, Jesse! So, all in all, how much did it set you back to build it vs buying one?

mrliriel
11-17-2008, 08:52 PM
Well the fixture it self cost me about $800 to build. If you include the cost of the Reefkeeper 2 that controls it then $1050. To buy a comparable 72" fixture (see Aquatinics Constellation) it would have cost me about $1230 and that is with no timer and no HO LED shimmer.

A comparable MH setup would run around $960. That is with no actinic supplementation.

T5 LED cost per day/month estimate.
200W x 14H = 2800WH / 1000 = 2.8kWh per day
200W x 4H = 800WH /1000 = .8kWh per day
40W x 8H = 320WH / 1000 = .32kWh per day
Total = 3.92kWh per day x $0.10766 = $0.42 per day
Total per month = $12.66

Obviously this usage will go up should I decide to add the other two lamps.

Ok for the hypothetical halide setup I am going to go with an 8 hour photo-period even though it is totally unrealistic. The reason being, that my wife expects the tank to be on when she wakes up and when she gets home. But I will just go with that because I know that someone will ***** that because of the intensity of the MH lamps shorter photo-periods can be used.

250W x 3 x 8H = 6000WH / 1000 = 6kWh per day
6 x $0.10766 = $.65
Total per month = $19.38

Cost difference $1050 - $960 = $90
Electric bill savings $6.72
Months elapsed before money is saved (assuming electricity doesn't go up) = 14

Now it becomes obvious that if utilities go up then the savings go up, the other savings that comes into play is that most T5 lamps can be run for 12 to 16 months and still retain 95% of their original intensity.
http://www.iaeel.org/IAEEL/NEWSL/1997/ett1997/LiTech_b_1_97.html
But for the sake of simplicity we won't factor that in.

mrliriel
11-17-2008, 08:55 PM
Lessons learned.
1. Building something like this is a pain in the ***. Next time have Eric make the acrilic.
2. Projects like this always end up costing way more than they should.

mrliriel
11-17-2008, 08:58 PM
I still have one more tank to put a canopy over and I am debating what the plan will be.

mrliriel
11-22-2008, 05:16 PM
Two more pics of some corals that have colored' up some since the new light installation.
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/aog.jpg
Http://www.thescmas.com/forums/gallery/files/2/8/1/rics1.jpg
The devil's hand leather is even turning color. It was a pretty bland peach color and now its turning a turquoise green color. I don't have good pics yet but will post some when I get a chance.

Murfman
11-22-2008, 07:20 PM
Those are some very nice, clear and colorful pix Jesse! Nice colors.

mrliriel
11-22-2008, 07:34 PM
Those are some very nice, clear and colorful pix Jesse! Nice colors. I took the pics but I can thank my wife for all the expesive cameras and what not that I used.

JLAURENCE32
11-22-2008, 07:40 PM
I took the pics but I can thank my wife for all the expesive cameras and what not that I used.

Looks good Jesse. Colors are coming thru. A good camera makes a big difference, too. I just turned all of my T5's on permanently today, was only running half to start. I'm hoping the colors start to come back within a few weeks.

liriel
11-22-2008, 08:52 PM
So far the clams and the run of the mill mushrooms seem to be the only things struggling to adjust. I'm not worried about the shrooms rebounding... the clams look better every day. My brown elkhorn is also turning green (like the leather).

I just have to use some serious yoga techniques to scrape coraline until our magfloat scraper gets here ;) I think my husband designed this thing just so I quit sticking my hands in the tank every day.

Murfman
03-08-2009, 04:09 PM
any longer term updates?

mrliriel
03-08-2009, 05:28 PM
Everything is doing well, most of the corals are much more happy under this setup than the old. The clams did not pull through. I don't know if it was the lights or if they were suffering from pyramid snails. We have a pocilapora, smoothskin acro, and an encrusting monti in there now and they all seem to be happy.

Some of the lamps do better when over driven than others. The Pro-color burnt out pretty quick. So I will be driving that ballast back down when I get a new lamp. The LEDs are all still burning, I haven't had any burn out yet which was a concern when driving them all at 3W but so far no issues to report.

I still haven't put a door on the fixture anywhere yet. I really want one on the front still, but my wife would rather burn her arm on the LEDs every time she needs to put her hand in the tank for something.

liriel
03-08-2009, 05:40 PM
Clam didn't make it, but the mushrooms came around nicely. I'll take some new pics later, but everything seems to be doing great. A few of the florida rics never were happy, but all the other ones are fine. The elkhorn and devil's fingers all look way brighter, and everything is quite happy. We still have a red lamp out, but I love the color and different lighting "effects" throughout the day. I'm fairly embarrassed by the pics he took while I was in france - coraline everywhere! I swear it doesn't always look like that, hehe.

hmm lets see, I might have a few shots in the old photobucket.

Gorilla Nipples

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k212/tedrabare/gorilla.jpg

Ric Island - Here's the ric color change

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k212/tedrabare/DSCF2830.jpg http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k212/tedrabare/ric_frag.jpg

Misc softies

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k212/tedrabare/FoxCoral.jpg

frags

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k212/tedrabare/tank/IMG_03771.jpg

Ric island and the pink anemones

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k212/tedrabare/tank/IMG_03751.jpg

zoo island

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k212/tedrabare/tank/IMG_03741.jpg

Left side of the tank

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k212/tedrabare/tank/IMG_03681.jpg

liriel
03-08-2009, 05:43 PM
Oh and my favorite. The maroon clown and her three anemones. The RBTA are much pinker in person, but you can see how cute she is here:

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k212/tedrabare/tank/ClownandAnenomeNew2.jpg

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k212/tedrabare/tank/ClownandAnenomesNew.jpg

JLAURENCE32
03-08-2009, 07:21 PM
Everything looks....better, even though before it looked great. Did you guys put on Icecap ballasts to overdrive those lamps? I though you had Workhorses under there. Maybe everything's just getting happier and growing.

mrliriel
03-08-2009, 07:42 PM
No Icecaps, all workhorses. You can over drive without an icecap it just isn't reccomended because most ballasts don't have all the safety features that an Icecap has, and it may cook some lamps.

JLAURENCE32
03-08-2009, 07:45 PM
No Icecaps, all workhorses. You can over drive without an icecap it just isn't reccomended because most ballasts don't have all the safety features that an Icecap has, and it may cook some lamps.

Huhhh, didn't know that. Is that what happened to the Procolor? A test perhaps?

mrliriel
03-08-2009, 07:49 PM
Yeh the procolor cooked in less than a month. It was a lesson to me to be a little more conservitive with my equipment, or purchase a ballast that is designed to overdrive.

JLAURENCE32
03-08-2009, 07:54 PM
Yeh the procolor cooked in less than a month. It was a lesson to me to be a little more conservitive with my equipment, or purchase a ballast that is designed to overdrive.

Well you had to try it. Where would we be if Newton hadn't broke some stuff and lit the other stuff on fire?