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JMEYER0503
07-01-2016, 07:11 AM
Being new to Saltwater I have tons of questions about my tank:

NOTE: 90 Gallon tank, 20 Gallon Sump w/ BioBalls and some gravel. Venturi style Skimmer Straight tube w/ (250 gph pump), Chetto and a return pump. There is only two rocks in the sump area as of the moment due to the skimmer sitting in the middle. Removed old rock in tank and added new live/dead rock (current estimate 50lbs in tank). 2 inch sand bed 1/2 coral rubble 1/2 sand. Three fish Spotted Fox Face, Pink Tail Trigger, either blender Goby or Sand Sifting (Still learning on types). Have a sea hare for green hair algae control. Lights LED WHite/Blue, T5 Reflector White and Blue (Seems like I should have more color wavelengths).

1) My protein skimmer seems to only give large bubble compares to everyone else I have seen, the pump is a Petco 250 gph with a standard wheel. Should I upgrade to a needle wheel to decrease the bubble size and have a better chance of protein contact? The skimmer is a basic venturi style skimmer, however the bubble enter 1/2 way up the system which seems odd as the more contact time the better.
2) What size clean-up crew should I get for a primarily coral tank?
3) Should I re-home my Pink Tail Trigger to avoid it eating the Inverts in the tank? While not aggressive to the other fish I have noticed the clean-up crew disappearing.
4) What else should the system have before introducing coral?

nude2saltlife
07-01-2016, 08:19 AM
If you regime the trigger please let me know I have a wonderful time for it.

marcslove
07-02-2016, 06:43 AM
It sounds like you have done a lot of research already. How long have you had the tank, I am assuming it's been cycled for some time now seeing the fish and inverts you have. I can't give any advice on the skimmer, but if the skimmate is dark, you should be fine. The trigger doesn't sound very reef safe from what I've read, but I'm sure someone that owed one will chime in. You can never really have too much cuc, especially if your trigger is snacking on them. As for coral, I would start slow. There is a meeting in 2 weeks, there will be tons of frags to start your reef system. I am sure your parameters are also in check, right?

Murfman
07-02-2016, 09:01 AM
I had a pink tail and although I never saw it snacking on snails or hermits, I won't say it didn't. It was a great addition and everyone loved seeing it when they came over. Hermits will take out snails, just for the shells. I try and stick with just snails for clean up.

Just_Tim
07-02-2016, 10:05 AM
Triggers can be a great show fish in a reef tank as long as they are the right species under the right circumstances. Like Murph said, even hermits will kill snails and lots of other fish like to eat hermits. For those reasons I only keep snails and a wide variety. If fed well and walking snacks (hermits) are not available, triggers are fun to watch. Not sure if that made sense, I'm still having morning coffee :)

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Kirblit
07-02-2016, 10:54 AM
You should post water parameters so we know what your water quality is. What kind of coral are you wanting to add? I would recommend taking out the bio balls before they become a problem in the future though. Don't take them all out at once. Take them out slowly over a couple weeks to avoid causing a cycle in your tank. One of the best things you can do is invest in a good quality skimmer. Besides an RO system this is probably one of the best investments you can make.

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JMEYER0503
07-02-2016, 02:40 PM
Being new to Saltwater I have tons of questions about my tank:

NOTE: 90 Gallon tank, 20 Gallon Sump w/ BioBalls and some gravel. Venturi style Skimmer Straight tube w/ (250 gph pump), Chetto and a return pump. There is only two rocks in the sump area as of the moment due to the skimmer sitting in the middle. Removed old rock in tank and added new live/dead rock (current estimate 50lbs in tank). 2 inch sand bed 1/2 coral rubble 1/2 sand. Three fish Spotted Fox Face, Pink Tail Trigger, either blender Goby or Sand Sifting (Still learning on types). Have a sea hare for green hair algae control. Lights LED WHite/Blue, T5 Reflector White and Blue (Seems like I should have more color wavelengths).

1) My protein skimmer seems to only give large bubble compares to everyone else I have seen, the pump is a Petco 250 gph with a standard wheel. Should I upgrade to a needle wheel to decrease the bubble size and have a better chance of protein contact? The skimmer is a basic venturi style skimmer, however the bubble enter 1/2 way up the system which seems odd as the more contact time the better.
2) What size clean-up crew should I get for a primarily coral tank?
3) Should I re-home my Pink Tail Trigger to avoid it eating the Inverts in the tank? While not aggressive to the other fish I have noticed the clean-up crew disappearing.
4) What else should the system have before introducing coral?

Sounds like I will be sticking to snails - What is the best place to get around 100ish? Which ones are the best to get? The algae I have are Green, Red, and Brown.

Got the skimmer running better and the skim seems to be staying dark just very little in a week. Possibly because of just three fish?
Water parameters -
Salinity 1.025 +- .001
TDS - Unknown need to get TDS tool
Ammonia - 0.0 ppm (Minor spikes as I add rock - Likely get Dr. Tims for a good bacteria addition)
Nitrite - 0.0 ppm
Nitrate - 20 ppm +- 5 ppm
Calcium - Unk - In saving for the kit
Mag - Unk - In saving for the kit
Alk - Unk - In saving for the kit
Temp - 79 Degrees
Just added a giant pile of Cheto w/ Lots of Micro-Organisms (estimated weight 1 lbs)

Just added Green Star Polyps (I know they can be nuisance, was wanting them to check if system is healthy to support something minor) They popped right out the next day looking healthy so far. Will be monitoring for the next two weeks.

My wife wants color for the coral and with the system being young since I have been trying to get it to standards, the easier the coral the better. The only fish I will likely add will to be for color and small. Clowns, Dottyback, Basslet etc... will just need to see if these are compatible. The one I must have Kids/Wife is the clowns so everything will be based on them.

I will say the trigger is fun to watch, when frightened it hides lays flat and does not move. It scared me the first time as I thought it was dead picked it up and it jumped just as it reached the top of the water.

With the cheto what things can I add in the sump? There is a brown buildup that I hate cleaning all the time. Like 1-2 times a week.

I have been cycling out the bioballs I am down to 1/2 the original amount, since then I have noticed the skimmer seems to be running better.

Just_Tim
07-02-2016, 04:23 PM
I get them from all over. I've got snails from coralxpressions, myReeftoYours, and petco. I have the three standard varieties of snails.

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JMEYER0503
07-04-2016, 12:31 PM
Sounds like I will be sticking to snails - What is the best place to get around 100ish? Which ones are the best to get? The algae I have are Green, Red, and Brown.

Got the skimmer running better and the skim seems to be staying dark just very little in a week. Possibly because of just three fish?
Water parameters -
Salinity 1.025 +- .001
TDS - Unknown need to get TDS tool
Ammonia - 0.0 ppm (Minor spikes as I add rock - Likely get Dr. Tims for a good bacteria addition)
Nitrite - 0.0 ppm
Nitrate - 20 ppm +- 5 ppm
Calcium - Unk - In saving for the kit
Mag - Unk - In saving for the kit
Alk - Unk - In saving for the kit
Temp - 79 Degrees
Just added a giant pile of Cheto w/ Lots of Micro-Organisms (estimated weight 1 lbs)

Just added Green Star Polyps (I know they can be nuisance, was wanting them to check if system is healthy to support something minor) They popped right out the next day looking healthy so far. Will be monitoring for the next two weeks.

My wife wants color for the coral and with the system being young since I have been trying to get it to standards, the easier the coral the better. The only fish I will likely add will to be for color and small. Clowns, Dottyback, Basslet etc... will just need to see if these are compatible. The one I must have Kids/Wife is the clowns so everything will be based on them.

I will say the trigger is fun to watch, when frightened it hides lays flat and does not move. It scared me the first time as I thought it was dead picked it up and it jumped just as it reached the top of the water.

With the cheto what things can I add in the sump? There is a brown buildup that I hate cleaning all the time. Like 1-2 times a week.

I have been cycling out the bioballs I am down to 1/2 the original amount, since then I have noticed the skimmer seems to be running better.


Just checked the Calcium with the new test - 560 ppm - So it is a little high - Likely due to the Salt I'm using and have nothing using the levels.

static reef
07-04-2016, 03:31 PM
If you havent added any calcium to the tank, I would question your test kit. 560 right out of the bag would be the highest I have ever heard of by far.

JMEYER0503
07-04-2016, 03:48 PM
If you havent added any calcium to the tank, I would question your test kit. 560 right out of the bag would be the highest I have ever heard of by far.

I just bought the test kit today. The Salt I use is from Oceanic which tends to run high from what I have read. One thing I was thinking is if my Mag or Alk was off could this cause a higher than normal reading?

Kirblit
07-04-2016, 08:28 PM
If you havent added any calcium to the tank, I would question your test kit. 560 right out of the bag would be the highest I have ever heard of by far.
Actually my last box of reef crystals was 550. I wouldn't have believed it either if I didn't have this experience. Those big water changes I had to do because of NO3 and phos really jumped my calcium up!

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JMEYER0503
07-05-2016, 04:24 AM
I run Oceanic and it appears to be at 560 Calcium with 9 Alk and 1350 Magnesium. Is calcium being to high a bad thing?

JMEYER0503
07-07-2016, 08:35 PM
I run Oceanic and it appears to be at 560 Calcium with 9 Alk and 1350 Magnesium. Is calcium being to high a bad thing?

My TDS meter just arrived and my tap water is 83-88 while my RO water is 6-7. It would seem I need a DI to make sure the metals are removed but is 6-7ppm a good number? As a side note this is coming from a well at a depth of 130'.

Just_Tim
07-07-2016, 09:00 PM
That's not a bad tds from your tap at all. Still need that DI though. You don't want those tds to creep up in your tank.

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JMEYER0503
07-11-2016, 08:23 PM
I run Oceanic and it appears to be at 560 Calcium with 9 Alk and 1350 Magnesium. Is calcium being to high a bad thing?

Alright so the latest results
Calcium 540-560 ppm
KH 180-190 ppm
PH 8.4
Phosphates 5.0 ppm (Think this must be off because would I have a giant bloom?) Everything looks fine as well, coral extending etc...

Also noticed one thing I was not expecting, Emerald Crabs are LPS jerks. Moved one of my LPS due to really strong current, as soon as it was in the new spot an emerald crab ran over and tore into it. I watch to make sure it wasn't algae and it was pulling the tentacles. Its now in the sump where maybe it can do some good cleaning the rock and Chaeto. Now worried as I have one more crab in the DT.

JMEYER0503
07-12-2016, 10:59 AM
Alright so the latest results
Calcium 540-560 ppm
KH 180-190 ppm
PH 8.4
Phosphates 5.0 ppm (Think this must be off because would I have a giant bloom?) Everything looks fine as well, coral extending etc...

Also noticed one thing I was not expecting, Emerald Crabs are LPS jerks. Moved one of my LPS due to really strong current, as soon as it was in the new spot an emerald crab ran over and tore into it. I watch to make sure it wasn't algae and it was pulling the tentacles. Its now in the sump where maybe it can do some good cleaning the rock and Chaeto. Now worried as I have one more crab in the DT.

Any recommendation to lower the 5.0 reading? Did a 10% water change planning on another one today - Friday Headed out to buy some Phosban to try and lower it. I have Chaeto in the Refugium, adjusted the skimmer to run wetter. Any other suggestions?

Kirblit
07-12-2016, 01:03 PM
Any recommendation to lower the 5.0 reading? Did a 10% water change planning on another one today - Friday Headed out to buy some Phosban to try and lower it. I have Chaeto in the Refugium, adjusted the skimmer to run wetter. Any other suggestions?
Use gfo (phosban) preferably in a reactor, it will drop it pretty fast. Water changes will never get you there. Watch your alk though because gfo causes acid formation and will reduce alk.

Couple questions though because you need to find the root cause. Having high nutrients doesn't always equate to algae problems I know from experience.

What test kit did you use?
What do you feed/how often /how much?
Do you use RO water?

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JMEYER0503
07-12-2016, 08:11 PM
Use gfo (phosban) preferably in a reactor, it will drop it pretty fast. Water changes will never get you there. Watch your alk though because gfo causes acid formation and will reduce alk.

Couple questions though because you need to find the root cause. Having high nutrients doesn't always equate to algae problems I know from experience.

What test kit did you use?
What do you feed/how often /how much?
Do you use RO water?

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Test Kit: Nutrafin Master Test Kit, Contains 10 Test Parameters
I was feeding every other day - minced shrimp and pellet - about an once of shrimp, less than an ounce pellet
I use RO water Tap is 88ppm - After RO filter 7-8ppm

The Shrimp is from Safeway and was rinsed maybe not well enough. I added some dead rock about 1.5 weeks ago thinking maybe those seeped some Phosphates.
I just added a Phosphate remover pouch to help reduce the levels
Is there a light I should leave on 7400 or the Blue?
I am starting to see some bloom happen

Kirblit
07-12-2016, 08:27 PM
Test Kit: Nutrafin Master Test Kit, Contains 10 Test Parameters
I was feeding every other day - minced shrimp and pellet - about an once of shrimp, less than an ounce pellet
I use RO water Tap is 88ppm - After RO filter 7-8ppm

The Shrimp is from Safeway and was rinsed maybe not well enough. I added some dead rock about 1.5 weeks ago thinking maybe those seeped some Phosphates.
I just added a Phosphate remover pouch to help reduce the levels
Is there a light I should leave on 7400 or the Blue?
I am starting to see some bloom happen
The tds off your ro is quite high, you may want to add a di stage. Is it a 100 gallon per day unit? Food is generally going to be your biggest input of phosphate into your tank. I can tell you that flake and pellet foods are absolutely loaded with phosphorus. Maybe cut down your feeding of dry foods and stick with frozen foods. Soaking food first in ro and then taking food out and not adding the ro can help remove some phosphorus from it. I doubt your rock is leaching it, but it's possible. A reactor with gfo is the best way to reduce phos.

I would have someone else test your water for phosphorus as well. The test kit you are using isn't really the best for anything besides nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia. I recommend salifert or Hanna checker for phosphorus, salifert or Hanna checker for alk, and salifert for magnesium and calcium. Red Sea also has some decent kits as well.

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JMEYER0503
07-12-2016, 08:45 PM
The tds off your ro is quite high, you may want to add a di stage. Is it a 100 gallon per day unit? Food is generally going to be your biggest input of phosphate into your tank. I can tell you that flake and pellet foods are absolutely loaded with phosphorus. Maybe cut down your feeding of dry foods and stick with frozen foods. Soaking food first in ro and then taking food out and not adding the ro can help remove some phosphorus from it. I doubt your rock is leaching it, but it's possible. A reactor with gfo is the best way to reduce phos.

I would have someone else test your water for phosphorus as well. The test kit you are using isn't really the best for anything besides nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia. I recommend salifert or Hanna checker for phosphorus, salifert or Hanna checker for alk, and salient for magnesium and calcium. Red Sea also has some decent kits as well.

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I agree on the DI stage, have it saved on my cart at marine depot.
It is maybe a 30gpd unit nothing massive but at the water pressure I have off well it runs maybe 10 gallons a day.
A GFO reactor is also on my list - wondering if my old version ASM Protein Skimmer is not functioning well as it seems to get very little skim over a week. Maybe 1/4 cup but at the same time my tank is very light stock right now. 7 Coral LPS,GSP (growing crazy), etc... Pink tail Trigger, Spot Foxface and Blender Goby.

Kirblit
07-12-2016, 08:59 PM
I agree on the DI stage, have it saved on my cart at marine depot.
It is maybe a 30gpd unit nothing massive but at the water pressure I have off well it runs maybe 10 gallons a day.
A GFO reactor is also on my list - wondering if my old version ASM Protein Skimmer is not functioning well as it seems to get very little skim over a week. Maybe 1/4 cup but at the same time my tank is very light stock right now. 7 Coral LPS,GSP (growing crazy), etc... Pink tail Trigger, Spot Foxface and Blender Goby.
Tds of ro prob isn't your phos problem in the first place though, it's food. Food is where it all comes from really.
As far as the ro unit first thing I would get a booster pump for sure if your on a well. Boost up to 75-85 psi max; this will help tremendously.
Second get a good 75gpd 4 stage ro unit with a filmtec membrane. It should have a 98% rejection rate or better. This will bring down your tds to around 1 or 2.
Third, scrap the di unit.... for now. I'm on a well and I can tell you it will only last about 100 gal or so and through it. There is alot of co2 in well water and it will use it up super fast. You can make an aerated vat to driveoff the co2 after your ro and then run it back through the di to avoid this. I'm going to do this, just haven't yet.

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static reef
07-12-2016, 10:39 PM
I would chime in just to give a second opinion and try and help you troubleshoot this, but it would be a copy/paste of everything kirby has told you.

JMEYER0503
07-13-2016, 08:51 AM
So then the big question is where is the best place to find a GFO reactor w/ media? I have a spare pump 275gph just no adjustment nozzle.

I did put in two emergency Phosphate packets last night and am running it through today. Checked levels this morning and I still have a 5.0 reading. I'm wondering if it is not a bad test though I did start to see some algae buildup on the glass. Will check today as I have the lights on full today not just the blues.

penrosereefer
07-13-2016, 09:32 AM
So then the big question is where is the best place to find a GFO reactor w/ media? I have a spare pump 275gph just no adjustment nozzle.

I did put in two emergency Phosphate packets last night and am running it through today. Checked levels this morning and I still have a 5.0 reading. I'm wondering if it is not a bad test though I did start to see some algae buildup on the glass. Will check today as I have the lights on full today not just the blues.

I have a BRS Dual Carbon and GFO reactor, no pump---20 bucks in canon city

Kirblit
07-13-2016, 12:29 PM
So then the big question is where is the best place to find a GFO reactor w/ media? I have a spare pump 275gph just no adjustment nozzle.

I did put in two emergency Phosphate packets last night and am running it through today. Checked levels this morning and I still have a 5.0 reading. I'm wondering if it is not a bad test though I did start to see some algae buildup on the glass. Will check today as I have the lights on full today not just the blues.
I would have someone test your phos just to make sure it's accurate for sure. Are you going to the meeting g sat? Bulk reef is a good option or Penrose just posted his for a good deal.

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JMEYER0503
07-13-2016, 03:08 PM
I will be there Saturday, I can bring a water sample if need be. I saw that just a little far for me right now. Will he be there this Saturday?
I came home and saw something new today tiny pink specks all over some new rock I added about 2 weeks ago. Im worried its the beginning of a Cyano outbreak. It is pink, very tiny and speckled almost as if someone used a paint brush and shook it out over the rock.


2922

penrosereefer
07-13-2016, 03:19 PM
I wont be there, I work saturdays again.

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Kirblit
07-13-2016, 03:40 PM
I will be there Saturday, I can bring a water sample if need be. I saw that just a little far for me right now. Will he be there this Saturday?
I came home and saw something new today tiny pink specks all over some new rock I added about 2 weeks ago. Im worried its the beginning of a Cyano outbreak. It is pink, very tiny and speckled almost as if someone used a paint brush and shook it out over the rock.


2922
Your rock looks very new. Could be some cyano but I wouldn't worry about it. Bring some water with you sat and I will test it for you. Bring atleast 50ml

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JMEYER0503
07-13-2016, 03:47 PM
Maybe we can arrange a time when you are in the springs.

JMEYER0503
07-13-2016, 03:52 PM
Your rock looks very new. Could be some cyano but I wouldn't worry about it. Bring some water with you sat and I will test it for you. Bring atleast 50ml

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The rock is definitely new, its the BRS made reef rock. I actually like it so far, would design the setup first and maybe drill some Frag holes in the future. I do notice many copepods residing in this rock as nothing but them can get in.

I will bring as much as I can to test. By then the Phosphate absorption material should be in for around 4 days so hopefully a noticeable drop will occur.

Kirblit
07-13-2016, 04:08 PM
The rock is definitely new, its the BRS made reef rock. I actually like it so far, would design the setup first and maybe drill some Frag holes in the future. I do notice many copepods residing in this rock as nothing but them can get in.

I will bring as much as I can to test. By then the Phosphate absorption material should be in for around 4 days so hopefully a noticeable drop will occur.
What pads are you using? Have you tested nitrate at all?

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JMEYER0503
07-13-2016, 05:28 PM
What pads are you using? Have you tested nitrate at all?

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They are PhosGuard Pads, and the last nitrate check yesterday they were between 15-20ppm

JMEYER0503
07-13-2016, 08:03 PM
They are PhosGuard Pads, and the last nitrate check yesterday they were between 15-20ppm

Just finished a 20% water change on the tank waited and retested the phosphates around 2.5ppm
I also tested the Saltwater mix I was making and discovered that it was registering as 2.5 ppm phosphate? What gives?
The saltwater is in a 33 gallon rubber maid trashcan bought new and flushed out. Can saltwater cause leaching of other chemicals?
I then tested the RO water and it registered 0.0 on the test kit. So it is either the saltwater mix or the trash can.

Kirblit
07-13-2016, 08:47 PM
Just finished a 20% water change on the tank waited and retested the phosphates around 2.5ppm
I also tested the Saltwater mix I was making and discovered that it was registering as 2.5 ppm phosphate? What gives?
The saltwater is in a 33 gallon rubber maid trashcan bought new and flushed out. Can saltwater cause leaching of other chemicals?
I then tested the RO water and it registered 0.0 on the test kit. So it is either the saltwater mix or the trash can.
Well sounds like the pads are helping. Test the ro out of the container before adding salt and then test after salt. It could be in the salt if it's not from your ro container. You already ruled out the ro water out of the unit it sounds like so it shouldn't be from there.

How old is your tank by the way? Everything looks pretty fresh. If that's the case it's going to take time for your nutrients to stabilize.

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JMEYER0503
07-13-2016, 08:59 PM
Well sounds like the pads are helping. Test the ro out of the container before adding salt and then test after salt. It could be in the salt if it's not from your ro container. You already ruled out the ro water out of the unit it sounds like so it shouldn't be from there.

How old is your tank by the way? Everything looks pretty fresh. If that's the case it's going to take time for your nutrients to stabilize.

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Both the RO and Saltwater are from the same type of trash can. The RO tested 0.0 and the Saltwater tested 2.5 so either the saltwater is causing a leech of the trashcan or its the salt. I will try and find my large glass jug and mix the salt to see if that is the cause. The tank was from a gentleman who had little time for it. I took it over with about 20 lbs of rock in it and I added about 20-30 lbs. Some was already cooked and ready while the white ones in the picture were added about 2 weeks ago. I have been trying to get everything stabilized without having a full kit until a few days ago. Once I get the phosphates down, fingers crossed, everything should be in balance.

Kirblit
07-13-2016, 09:04 PM
Both the RO and Saltwater are from the same type of trash can. The RO tested 0.0 and the Saltwater tested 2.5 so either the saltwater is causing a leech of the trashcan or its the salt. I will try and find my large glass jug and mix the salt to see if that is the cause. The tank was from a gentleman who had little time for it. I took it over with about 20 lbs of rock in it and I added about 20-30 lbs. Some was already cooked and ready while the white ones in the picture were added about 2 weeks ago. I have been trying to get everything stabilized without having a full kit until a few days ago. Once I get the phosphates down, fingers crossed, everything should be in balance.
Is the sand old with the original tank or is it new? Yea it will take some time to get a good balance. I would find out if the phos is from the salt or not. If it's not from the salt I would do a 50% change to get the nitrates down as well. I would try to keep your nitrates around 5 or so. Contrary to popular belief you do not want nitrates or phos at truly 0. Look up the Redfield ratio it's, really insightful. It's really bad for corals to have no nutrients. I would like to explain this more in depth at the meeting on Sat to everyone. As a community we are getting too good at driving nutrients to 0 and it's causing other problems.

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JMEYER0503
07-14-2016, 04:54 AM
Is the sand old with the original tank or is it new? Yea it will take some time to get a good balance. I would find out if the phos is from the salt or not. If it's not from the salt I would do a 50% change to get the nitrates down as well. I would try to keep your nitrates around 5 or so. Contrary to popular belief you do not want nitrates or phos at truly 0. Look up the Redfield ratio it's, really insightful. It's really bad for corals to have no nutrients. I would like to explain this more in depth at the meeting on Sat to everyone. As a community we are getting too good at driving nutrients to 0 and it's causing other problems.

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There is original sand with the tank. When I first picked it up the first change I vacuumed the sand every few days for a 2 weeks to remove the buildup. It was terrible the water was charcoal grey. Due to the I bought some live sand from Petco and added it to restart some bacteria just in case it was lost. The old live rock was not very porous and has this black look to it, nothing like the live rock I added 4 weeks ago. That rock has green, red, brown, dark brown colors to it. The old stuff looks like a black sponge. I removed 1/2 and let it sit outside to see what color it was originally. Turns out it is light grey/white.

After last nights water change the pink spots have grown in size on the new rock, however some pink showed up in the sand/rubble. I think its cyano starting just going slow due to me handling the nutrients in the tank.

JMEYER0503
07-14-2016, 05:32 PM
There is original sand with the tank. When I first picked it up the first change I vacuumed the sand every few days for a 2 weeks to remove the buildup. It was terrible the water was charcoal grey. Due to the I bought some live sand from Petco and added it to restart some bacteria just in case it was lost. The old live rock was not very porous and has this black look to it, nothing like the live rock I added 4 weeks ago. That rock has green, red, brown, dark brown colors to it. The old stuff looks like a black sponge. I removed 1/2 and let it sit outside to see what color it was originally. Turns out it is light grey/white.

After last nights water change the pink spots have grown in size on the new rock, however some pink showed up in the sand/rubble. I think its cyano starting just going slow due to me handling the nutrients in the tank.

Figured out where the phosphates are coming from, drum roll, the trash cans. They are seeping phosphates into the water. When the salt is added it changes the chemistry and allows phosphates to seep.

What is the cheapest item to store RO and Saltwater for water changes? Due to circumstances the cheaper the better.

maxthedog2000
07-14-2016, 05:38 PM
Figured out where the phosphates are coming from, drum roll, the trash cans. They are seeping phosphates into the water. When the salt is added it changes the chemistry and allows phosphates to seep.

What is the cheapest item to store RO and Saltwater for water changes? Due to circumstances the cheaper the better.
Are you just using the trash cans from Wal-Mart or what cuz that's what I use to

Carter

JMEYER0503
07-14-2016, 06:12 PM
Are you just using the trash cans from Wal-Mart or what cuz that's what I use to

Carter

Im using the homedepot rubbermaid ones. Is yours leaching phosphates? If not can you send a picture so I know what to buy.

maxthedog2000
07-14-2016, 06:26 PM
Im using the homedepot rubbermaid ones. Is yours leaching phosphates? If not can you send a picture so I know what to buy.
I don't know I haven't tested them and I run gfo/carbon reactor but I can send you a pic

Carter

Kirblit
07-14-2016, 08:05 PM
Im using the homedepot rubbermaid ones. Is yours leaching phosphates? If not can you send a picture so I know what to buy.
That's what I have used to mix salt in for years. I doubt that's where it's coming from. Are the the brute cans? If so they are nsf rated and shouldn't leach anything. Did you try mixing salt in another container and test and it was fine and then tested after mixing in trash can? I bet the majority of people in this hobby use those cans and I haven't heard of it before. I'm not saying it's impossible but it's unlikely, and not at those levels your swing in your tank. 5mg/l of phos is quite a bit.

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JMEYER0503
07-14-2016, 08:42 PM
That's what I have used to mix salt in for years. I doubt that's where it's coming from. Are the the brute cans? If so they are nsf rated and shouldn't leach anything. Did you try mixing salt in another container and test and it was fine and then tested after mixing in trash can? I bet the majority of people in this hobby use those cans and I haven't heard of it before. I'm not saying it's impossible but it's unlikely, and not at those levels your swing in your tank. 5mg/l of phos is quite a bit.

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I put the RO water in a glass jar that I rinsed thoroughly and added water directly from the line. It tested at 0.0 crystal clear by my test kit (granted it does not pick up well below .25ppm). I then checked the water in the Trash can again and it tested high.

They are no the brute cans (that I know of) so I will be looking for those, what place is the cheapest?

Just tested the tank water again today and the Phosphates are back up between 2.5 - 4ppm. Something in the tank is causing it and I'm not sure what. For a while there were almost no spaghetti worms and now they are all over so I know something is feeding them. I wonder if my sea hare died somewhere and it is causing the spike. Another option is that the old rock absorbed a lot of Phosphate and now that the tank is lower than the rock they are leaching more.

I'm thinking it might be time to hook up my 10 gallon put the fish and coral in it and do a huge water change. But I first need to create enough water to fill it as I don't want them in the 10 gallon for an extended duration. Since the trashcans are leaching that is also not an option.

Kirblit
07-14-2016, 08:52 PM
Home Depot or Lowe's, the 35 gal is like $30 and the 45 gal is like $40 or so. They are made by Rubbermaid though, they are dark Grey and are called brute. If you haven't done a waterchange and your phos went up then yes it is in the tank. It could be leaching from your old rock or sand, but I stick with overfeeding as the root cause. Food and fish waste from eating said food are the two major contributors to phosphorus. Do you run filter socks or any other form of mechanical filtration? If so how often do you change or clean them?

Doing a huge water change is a possibility but it will only be a bandaid. You have to find the root cause to really fix it. To get your phos to a very low natural level you are going to have to do a 100% change and your livestock will not be happy with that. You want your phos to be somewhere below 0.1 with0.02-0.05 being optimal.

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JMEYER0503
07-14-2016, 09:08 PM
Are you just using the trash cans from Wal-Mart or what cuz that's what I use to

Carter

They are from HomeDepot but yes, just the cheap 14 dollar trashcans, black with handles.

Kirblit
07-14-2016, 09:12 PM
Yea I would get the good ones. They hold up to water weight much better as well. The cheap ones aren't really designed for liquid at all.

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JMEYER0503
07-14-2016, 09:23 PM
Home Depot or Lowe's, the 35 gal is like $30 and the 45 gal is like $40 or so. They are made by Rubbermaid though, they are dark Grey and are called brute. If you haven't done a waterchange and your phos went up then yes it is in the tank. It could be leaching from your old rock or sand, but I stick with overfeeding as the root cause. Food and fish waste from eating said food are the two major contributors to phosphorus. Do you run filter socks or any other form of mechanical filtration? If so how often do you change or clean them?

Doing a huge water change is a possibility but it will only be a bandaid. You have to find the root cause to really fix it. To get your phos to a very low natural level you are going to have to do a 100% change and your livestock will not be happy with that. You want your phos to be somewhere below 0.1 with0.02-0.05 being optimal.

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Yeah, I figured that. I run a pad from Michaels sowing section cheap and dense. When I was running a sock I cleaned it once a week. It was so bad every time that I spent an hour on it. I would put it in and within a week it was bad again. I have been feeding every three days since the high level detection. I cut down the food by 1/2 so I am thinking its the old rock leaching. If that's the case then no water change will help it as it will rise and rise again (Batman reference). I just mickey rigged a algae scrubber, just a piece of knitting plastic layed at an angle off the skimmer. Gets a steady flow, plenty of O2 and light, hope it will work until I can get a better setup.

Good news is after all this I should have a great foundation of knowledge to build on.

Kirblit
07-14-2016, 09:27 PM
Yea you learn the most from the mistakes, and you never forget them either!

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JMEYER0503
07-15-2016, 06:04 AM
Yea you learn the most from the mistakes, and you never forget them either!

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Very true, a lesson learned in some pain you will always remember. My saltwater bin will be full today. I will get a salt mix going and do another water change, this time with a deep vacuum of the sand bed.

I did put in the reef saver rock and found an article saying that it has a tendency to leak phosphates. Should I remove the rock and try and cook it to see if the phosphates come down?

The skimmer appears to be an ASM G1 original. Im wondering if the original pump failed and this one was added.

Murfman
07-15-2016, 07:01 AM
http://cosprings.craigslist.org/grd/5615193992.html

One of mine held soy sauce, the other root beer syrup.


Just keep doing 10% every day for 10 days and then test again. If it is down, then you are doing the right thing. Like Kirby said, 100% or even 50% is stressful.

JMEYER0503
07-15-2016, 08:22 AM
http://cosprings.craigslist.org/grd/5615193992.html

One of mine held soy sauce, the other root beer syrup.


Just keep doing 10% every day for 10 days and then test again. If it is down, then you are doing the right thing. Like Kirby said, 100% or even 50% is stressful.

Thanks for the link. May stop by to get one just to have something for salt mixing as the salt can seems to have the higher Phosphate levels. I did a 30% yesterday and will be doing 10% until I see the levels drop. Thus is why I was asking about other uses for saltwater as this much would kill the bacteria in the septic.

JMEYER0503
07-15-2016, 04:39 PM
Thanks for the link. May stop by to get one just to have something for salt mixing as the salt can seems to have the higher Phosphate levels. I did a 30% yesterday and will be doing 10% until I see the levels drop. Thus is why I was asking about other uses for saltwater as this much would kill the bacteria in the septic.

Came home did a 10% water change. I also checked if the bright pink lifts off the rock by a strong current. It is hard to the rock even scraping did not yield anything coming off. Its not spreading like I would expect Coralline to. It seems to be doubling in size every day and is only located in spots with good light and a slightly lower current.

I swear its this color, but with phosphates so high why would this grow?
http://ocean.si.edu/blog/coralline-algae-unsung-architects-coral-reefs

Just_Tim
07-15-2016, 06:48 PM
I would get the brute can just for the durability but also because that's what pretty much 75% of the national reefers are using. It's what I use to make RO then it gets moved to a poly tank for long-term saltwater storage.

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JMEYER0503
07-16-2016, 09:21 AM
I would get the brute can just for the durability but also because that's what pretty much 75% of the national reefers are using. It's what I use to make RO then it gets moved to a poly tank for long-term saltwater storage.

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Confirmed its from the Trash Cans. Did a phosphate test on the bottom water rather than top and it matches my tank level of close to 5ppm. I will be running out today to pick up a Brute trash can.

JMEYER0503
07-26-2016, 09:00 AM
Confirmed its from the Trash Cans. Did a phosphate test on the bottom water rather than top and it matches my tank level of close to 5ppm. I will be running out today to pick up a Brute trash can.

Its been about 10 days and the phosphates are down to around 1.5 and the Brute trashcan appears to be working. I have not done a water change in about 3 days to allow everything to de-stress a little. The next water change will be Wednesday at 20%. From the Meeting the only coral that did not make it was the Monti's as my T5 bulb went out so I bought a new one. I'm thinking this bleached the corals along with the combination of high phosphates. All the others appear to be doing well. I made a custom $3 reactor for GFO - now just need the GFO - to bring everything down the rest of the way. Anyone have a recommendation for GFO - It is a high flow reactor as the pump I have is around 260gph. It will hold around 2cups of media and be slightly compressed.

Kirblit
07-26-2016, 10:01 AM
Its been about 10 days and the phosphates are down to around 1.5 and the Brute trashcan appears to be working. I have not done a water change in about 3 days to allow everything to de-stress a little. The next water change will be Wednesday at 20%. From the Meeting the only coral that did not make it was the Monti's as my T5 bulb went out so I bought a new one. I'm thinking this bleached the corals along with the combination of high phosphates. All the others appear to be doing well. I made a custom $3 reactor for GFO - now just need the GFO - to bring everything down the rest of the way. Anyone have a recommendation for GFO - It is a high flow reactor as the pump I have is around 260gph. It will hold around 2cups of media and be slightly compressed.
You don't want too high of flow through the reactor for two reasons; If the media tumbles too much it could crush up which could turn your tank orange. The second and most important thing is contact time. GAC and GFO are all about contact time for good removal rates. I would highly recommend putting a ball valve on the line in to the reactor after the pump so you can control the flow rate through it. It's best to have very small "boil" of the GFO media in the top 1/8th inch or so to prevent channeling.

Also keep an eye on your alkalinity while doing this, like I mentioned before it creates an acid and will decrease your alkalinity. 2 cups of media should be good, just check your phos after 24hrs, and 48 hrs to make sure it doesn't go to zero. Zero phosphorus isn't good for your tank either. Shoot for. 02-.05 for optimum water quality. It should take about 48 hrs or so to remove most of your phosphates though.

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JMEYER0503
07-26-2016, 10:42 AM
You don't want too high of flow through the reactor for two reasons; If the media tumbles too much it could crush up which could turn your tank orange. The second and most important thing is contact time. GAC and GFO are all about contact time for good removal rates. I would highly recommend putting a ball valve on the line in to the reactor after the pump so you can control the flow rate through it. It's best to have very small "boil" of the GFO media in the top 1/8th inch or so to prevent channeling.

Also keep an eye on your alkalinity while doing this, like I mentioned before it creates an acid and will decrease your alkalinity. 2 cups of media should be good, just check your phos after 24hrs, and 48 hrs to make sure it doesn't go to zero. Zero phosphorus isn't good for your tank either. Shoot for. 02-.05 for optimum water quality. It should take about 48 hrs or so to remove most of your phosphates though.

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Thanks for the info - Was thinking about adding a ball valve but I also did build it to accept the overflow from the tank, would just need a hole to allow lower pressure or add a T connection. I built it with 3/4 inch tube connections to fit the tank bulkheads better. So the Brown/Orange GFO is better than the Phosban stuff? Is there anything I should watch for with coral or fish to know if it is doing harm? Also is there anyplace in the Springs that sells the GFO I need?

I already have a PH with Alk buffer and another buffer that I cannot remember right now.
The one good thing is I'm religious about checking parameters right now.
With waking up at 3am I have a few minutes I can test phosphates and will likely run it only at night and remove before the lights come on.

maxthedog2000
07-26-2016, 10:43 AM
Its been about 10 days and the phosphates are down to around 1.5 and the Brute trashcan appears to be working. I have not done a water change in about 3 days to allow everything to de-stress a little. The next water change will be Wednesday at 20%. From the Meeting the only coral that did not make it was the Monti's as my T5 bulb went out so I bought a new one. I'm thinking this bleached the corals along with the combination of high phosphates. All the others appear to be doing well. I made a custom $3 reactor for GFO - now just need the GFO - to bring everything down the rest of the way. Anyone have a recommendation for GFO - It is a high flow reactor as the pump I have is around 260gph. It will hold around 2cups of media and be slightly compressed.
I have mine run through a gravity feed that keeps it a good flow that is slow enough to get good contact time and fast enough to prevent channeling in the gfo and every week or two I give it a little shake to mix the gfo just in case there is channeling.

Carter

JMEYER0503
07-26-2016, 10:52 AM
I have mine run through a gravity feed that keeps it a good flow that is slow enough to get good contact time and fast enough to prevent channeling in the gfo and every week or two I give it a little shake to mix the gfo just in case there is channeling.

Carter

Does everything run through the GFO or is there a T to let off some pressure?

maxthedog2000
07-26-2016, 11:43 AM
Does everything run through the GFO or is there a T to let off some pressure?
Everything goes through it I'll send a pic asap

Carter

Kirblit
07-26-2016, 01:15 PM
Thanks for the info - Was thinking about adding a ball valve but I also did build it to accept the overflow from the tank, would just need a hole to allow lower pressure or add a T connection. I built it with 3/4 inch tube connections to fit the tank bulkheads better. So the Brown/Orange GFO is better than the Phosban stuff? Is there anything I should watch for with coral or fish to know if it is doing harm? Also is there anyplace in the Springs that sells the GFO I need?

I already have a PH with Alk buffer and another buffer that I cannot remember right now.
The one good thing is I'm religious about checking parameters right now.
With waking up at 3am I have a few minutes I can test phosphates and will likely run it only at night and remove before the lights come on.
GFO and phosban are the same thing. Sps will start to pale/bleach if nutrients are too low. Other corals will lose color and not expand very much because they are getting too much light and the zoozanthelle leave the coral because they are in too much light. Having no nutrients essentially makes them unable to photosynthesise because you need a carbon, phos, and NO3 source. Sps are really good nutrient indicators of nutrients.

Brown=too many nutrients/need more light & alk to use those nutrients

Pale/bleached= too low nutrients/need less light & alk because of low nutrients. Essentially you will get burnt tips first which is the skeleton outpacing flesh growth because of a lack of nutrients needed for the zoozanthelle to feed the coral flesh. This will usually lead to STN.

I would be concerned about detritus buildup if you used it off of the overflow. It would probably be OK short term but I would want a filter sock or settling area upstream of the reactor.

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maxthedog2000
07-26-2016, 01:47 PM
Everything goes through it I'll send a pic asap

Carter
Here are a few pics sorry about the lighting

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160726/72e23297c2f7d64a34145102b7e55f07.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160726/dd46ebf96f9c0b5d1a93d585061ad6ac.jpg

The water siphons from the fuge through the reactor and empties in the sump

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160726/c6dedc2ff268eca51cbdffa7b7305d39.jpg

This is the fuge and sump setup you can see the reactor on the left

Carter

JMEYER0503
07-26-2016, 07:28 PM
Here are a few pics sorry about the lighting

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160726/72e23297c2f7d64a34145102b7e55f07.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160726/dd46ebf96f9c0b5d1a93d585061ad6ac.jpg

The water siphons from the fuge through the reactor and empties in the sump

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160726/c6dedc2ff268eca51cbdffa7b7305d39.jpg

This is the fuge and sump setup you can see the reactor on the left

Carter

Thanks for the info - I think I will go by the ball valve to control flow.
New Paramiters as of today -
10-20ppm Nitrate
1.5-2pppm Phosphate
It appears my algae is beginning to increase as the live rock is now covered in a thick dark green algae. No Cyano in DT but exists in the refugium/sump

Just_Tim
07-26-2016, 08:15 PM
Aquatic Art carries the little green valves that come with reactors for 1/2 and 3/4 tubing.

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JMEYER0503
07-27-2016, 10:06 AM
Thanks for the info - I think I will go by the ball valve to control flow.
New Paramiters as of today -
10-20ppm Nitrate
1.5-2pppm Phosphate
It appears my algae is beginning to increase as the live rock is now covered in a thick dark green algae. No Cyano in DT but exists in the refugium/sump

Just ordered
GFO (Phosphate) - Phosban (Nitrate,Nitrite and Ammonia) - will run through my reactor
Two 1300gph wave-makers (Turns out one of my live rock was not getting enough movement [Turning Black] and need one of the smaller ones for the refugium) - The total movement will be around 3000gph in a 90 gallon or + 30x can rotate another small one in if there is too much movement.
MarinePure Bio Balls (To use for the return section in the sump. A final Bio Filter and will help keep animals out when layered by plastic knitting cloth)

It will be here Friday - if I can get the phosphates down and lower the nitrates slightly then I should be able to get the water quality way up.

Kirblit
07-27-2016, 12:47 PM
Don't stress too much your nutrients are not that bad. High nutrients don't always equate to algae issues, I can attest to that. Check out this thread I made a month or so ago
http://www.thescmas.com/forums/showthread.php?19934-Ludacrisly-High-Phos!
Getting the phos down is pretty easy really. I just now got my nitrates down to around 10 (i figure they were over 150). Never had an algae problem and corals looked good. I still haven't scraped my glass in over 2 months. Most important thing is to have some nutrients and not to let phos ever be higher than nitrates or you will get a ton of algae in most cases. Shoot for real low phos and then have nitrates at 5 or so for optimum coral happiness 😉. You never want 0 of either.

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JMEYER0503
07-27-2016, 04:15 PM
Don't stress too much your nutrients are not that bad. High nutrients don't always equate to algae issues, I can attest to that. Check out this thread I made a month or so ago
http://www.thescmas.com/forums/showthread.php?19934-Ludacrisly-High-Phos!
Getting the phos down is pretty easy really. I just now got my nitrates down to around 10 (i figure they were over 150). Never had an algae problem and corals looked good. I still haven't scraped my glass in over 2 months. Most important thing is to have some nutrients and not to let phos ever be higher than nitrates or you will get a ton of algae in most cases. Shoot for real low phos and then have nitrates at 5 or so for optimum coral happiness 😉. You never want 0 of either.

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Yeah, Im not as worried about the nitrates however I have a rock that started turning black, think it may have lacked O2. Wanted to get the stuff to scrub everything and work from a lower slate. My Phosphates was at 5+ppm and now they are down around 1-2 now and slowly rise. Think it is the old rock leaching some. Using the phosphate reducer will help. I am using some stuff Murfman gave me but it has stopped working right now and without the instructions I cannot try increasing the dose. Along with two of my wavemakers putting out a lot less flow it was just building gunk. Corals look alright however Apastia seems to be coming in heavy. Looks like a file fish (just worried about bubble anemone) as everything else gets eaten by my Pink Tail. Also need some CUC as the only snails I have are under the sand. I figure get this handled and I am pretty rigorous about water changes so it should stay low.

I had read that a while back. I am another proof that high Nitrate and Phosphate does not equal algae bloom. Now add carbon like I did in the sump and its another story.

JMEYER0503
07-30-2016, 08:06 AM
Tank update, my GFO arrived yesterday afternoon and I hooked it up to my Reactor. It seems to be working as my phosphates went from >1.5 to <.5ppm in around 12-16 hours. The nitrates dropped to 5-10ppm and the KH is around 12, just added a KH supplement to raise it some. The Cyano appears to be receding as well as the diatoms bloom. The greenish rock color remains but the green algae on the glass is gone. I also added the fake calcium bio balls to the refugium pump area we will see how that one goes.

The water looks much clearer due to adding 2000gph+ wave makers in with the existing flow. All per amputees appear to be within range accept for phosphates remaining high. How long until I notice a difference in coral growth? Is there anything someone would recommend to help increase growth, non target feeding? Also in about 4 weeks what are some good fish for the job? I'm thinking a small yellow tang for now as it will give me time to look for a larger tank by the time it needs it.

Joe
07-30-2016, 09:53 AM
What corals do you have? All I see posted is the Green Star polyps. Maybe I missed an update? If you haven't had a source to seed coraline algae, I would recommend getting some to get your rocks started turning purple, which keeps other algae from gaining hold as easily. You just need some scrapings of some or a small rock with some already on it. I can scrape some for you if you need it.

If you have algae, a lawnmower blend is a great small fish to add. I'd recommend a scopas tang. Be ready, you'll get a lot of different fish recommendations, as everyone has their favorites for certain reasons.

Kirblit
07-30-2016, 10:26 AM
Your alk is plenty high, don't add anymore. 8-11 is a good range, I tend to shoot for 10. Again like Joe asked, what corals do you have? Phosphate is really only growth limiting to stony corals, softies like a dirtier tank. If you have acros your probably talking a month or 2 of good stable conditions for real big improvements.

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JMEYER0503
07-30-2016, 09:14 PM
What corals do you have? All I see posted is the Green Star polyps. Maybe I missed an update? If you haven't had a source to seed coraline algae, I would recommend getting some to get your rocks started turning purple, which keeps other algae from gaining hold as easily. You just need some scrapings of some or a small rock with some already on it. I can scrape some for you if you need it.

If you have algae, a lawnmower blend is a great small fish to add. I'd recommend a scopas tang. Be ready, you'll get a lot of different fish recommendations, as everyone has their favorites for certain reasons.


What corals do you have? All I see posted is the Green Star polyps. Maybe I missed an update? If you haven't had a source to seed coraline algae, I would recommend getting some to get your rocks started turning purple, which keeps other algae from gaining hold as easily. You just need some scrapings of some or a small rock with some already on it. I can scrape some for you if you need it.

If you have algae, a lawnmower blend is a great small fish to add. I'd recommend a scopas tang. Be ready, you'll get a lot of different fish recommendations, as everyone has their favorites for certain reasons.


Well tried to attach images but no luck
Coral:
Duncan
Frogspaw
Acan - several
Bounce Mushroom
Several Zoas - 5 or six types
Managed to save one Monti
Blue Trumpet - two heads getting ready to split
Candycane
War Coral
Chalice
Cup Coral - Large
Green Star Polyp

Tested the water at 2100 - its around .25ppm Phosphate
KH - 12 and slowly dropping
PH - 8.2 - 8.3
Salinity - 1.026 - adjusting tank water to drop to 1.025/4
Nitrate - 5-10ppm
Calcium - 480ppm fell from 520

The water looks really clear now - however I have a new issue weird red/brown hydra like things are on the back glass and they move with the current. Thinking some form of algae but don't know. I have been having hydra lately - however these appear to be red or light brown not the white of the normal hydras.

I also have a whole mess of brownish circle spots forming along the dirty back glass. They have a dark brown center and lighter outside and almost perfectly round - is this what I think it is (Beginning Coralline algae?)

I have also spotted a stripped feather duster, bright red feather duster, and a few clears ones around the coral frags.

Have noticed an increase in aptasia (grrrr).

Lights on for around 7 hours - on a timer
clean up crew working overtime - everything is looking much better
Protein skimmer actually skimming

JMEYER0503
08-09-2016, 10:54 AM
Alright so it has been a while since I have provided an update on the tank.

Everything appears to be doing better since the addition of the wavemakers.

My Nassarius Snails seem to be breeding as I found some tiny guys cruzing along. I have a tiny starfish on the glass, looks as though its going for algae; never added it. White sponges forming all around the tank. The white rocks darkening getting a brown/green look to them.

Corals appear happy as everything is extending and some color has come back. Amphipods and Copopod levels are rising. Algae has not grown or remains the same unless in the sump.

Only issue I have is that all the coral does not look as bright. I have a Blue at 10k T5 and a more red spectrum at 6700k.

turbojoe
08-09-2016, 11:56 AM
Pics?!

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JMEYER0503
08-10-2016, 09:50 PM
Pics?!

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29292930293129322933

JMEYER0503
08-23-2016, 06:17 AM
It appears that my system is wanting to stay at .125 mg/l Phosphates and Likes to run around 10-15ppm Nitrates. I have been running GFO and Carbon lately and the color of the COral has increased greatly. The Favia, Acans, and Duncan are going bonkers with each starting about 2 or more heads/mouths. The ones seeming to have trouble are the Trumpet and Frogspaw whihc remain with the original number of heads.

I have noticed my protein skimmer is no longer pulling skim and figured my jimmy rigged system is finally is giving out. So I just ordered a Sedra 3500 for the ASM skimmer a slight upgrade in power so fingers crossed there. I also ordered an ATI 14k light fixture to replace the 6.7k spectrum I have now.

Thank you everyone for all the information.